All of us at Neli understand there are times when your washer will not do what it is supposed to do. That said, here is another addition to our DIY Appliance Repair Series: Error Codes and Calibration for the Whirlpool Series WTW5000DW top load washer.

Today’s post will show you how to read the error codes that occasionally occur on your Whirlpool Model WTW5000DW washer. Also, I will show you how to calibrate the machine to help smooth out its operation.

Technically speaking, you should use the calibration mode after any part replacement. Sometimes, though, it can help rid the control of erroneous operation that does not make sense.

Error Codes and Calibration

To get started with diagnosing an error code, you must access the control electronics and view its memory.  Click here to view a copy of the tech sheet, just like the one stored inside your washer that shows you how to activate the service and diagnostic test modes.

Warning: Once you have successfully activated the diagnostics using this procedure, you can cancel it by pressing and holding the START button. Also, DO NOT select any function if you do not understand its operation. We cannot be held liable for mistakes that could cause your machine to fail.

If you prefer, feel free to view the tech sheet stored inside your machine, under the console. Printing the tech sheet makes referring to it much more manageable.

With the console display showing the flashing LEDs, rotate the selector knob to “DONE,” then press “START.” Turn the selector knob clockwise to view the most recent error code down to the oldest. Write down which LEDs are flashing, with each click of the knob. Remember, the first one is the latest code. Refer to the tech sheet to determine the code, its cause, and possible solution. The LED indicator names may be different, but the functions are the same.

Now that you confirmed the error code, carefully read the possible cause and solution. Remember that the tech sheet will not train you. It is there to assist technicians when they troubleshoot. If you are unfamiliar with anything you see, please, do not risk hurting yourself or your washer. It is not worth it.

I know that you know your limitations. Please reach out to Neli and make an appointment to talk to one of us to solve the issue. We have the experience and knowledge and will be glad to share it with you. Just make the appointment, and we will help you fix your washer.

Common Error Codes Explained

I have worked on these machines for a long time, and I have seen my share of error codes, but I have not seen all of them. That is because some of them are very rare, but I think they are listed because at some point they might happen.

That said, I will go into detail about common error codes you are likely to see on your machine.

I listed a SUDS error code because although other reasons usually cause it except for too much soap, it is still worth mentioning. Sometimes a mechanical bind in the basket will trick the control into thinking it is a suds problem, when it is something stuck between the basket and the tub, causing the basket to bind.

Off-balance or overload error codes are most common in top load washers. The first checks are the suspension rods and the driven hub in the basket. Overloading and heavy, unbalanced loads cause this error, and the only fix is either new suspension rods and a new driven hub, or both. Avoid these errors by remembering that a half-full basket is a full load. No exceptions.

I can tell you from experience that most of the time, the main control needs replacing. F1 codes on these machines usually mean the control is bad. You can make the checks by following the tech sheet, but I think they will take you right to the control.

Sometimes, before either of the above errors show up, you might here the control continuously try to lock the lid. Look at the strike mounted to the lid first. Next, check the action of the strike as you close the lid. If the strike hangs up, suspect the lid lock. In some instances, a bad relay on the control causes the repetitive locking sound. In that case, the control is the cause.

The basket speed fault is one of those errors caused by several problems. A calibration might take care of all of them. Make sure the basket spins freely and look underneath the machine to check the gearcase and pulley. If all looks good here, try a calibration.

If calibration passes, try a drain and spin to check the motor, control, and capacitor. Next, try starting a wash and wait until agitation starts. If it never starts agitation, check the shifter (actuator). If you suspect a bad shifter, perform the test located in the tech sheet.

Most times, you will spot this problem before the error code shows up. That is because you will notice the cold or hot water is not filling at the regular rate, or the cold water does not fill fast enough during the rinse.

The first check is the water hoses and screens. Be careful with the new style screens. They are now plastic, and while you can remove them, even if you can without breaking them, it is likely the solenoid that opens the valve failed.

Because the control is fussy about water fill times, I always replace the water inlet valve to avoid the hassle of the plastic screens and a failed solenoid or two. The part is cheap enough that it is not a huge expense, and it will get your machine running well again.

If you notice your clothes soaked at the end of the wash, do not immediately suspect the drain pump. It is lower on the scale of probable causes. The first check is the drain hose in the standpipe. Please make sure the end of it is no more than 4.5 inches down into the standpipe.

The further down the hose is, the more likely a siphon may occur. A siphon will obstruct the drain function and cause the control to send the error code for long drain. The way this happens is the drain water first flows into the drain. Still, because the standpipe is already full, it causes water to remain in the tub where the water level sensor (pressure sensor) does not register with the control that the water level is not decreasing, flagging the control to send the error code.

The same result happens if there is a pinhole air leak in the pressure switch hose. The water level sensor system requires an airtight hose that sends the air pressure changes to the digital air sensor on the control. If the air does not reach the sensor, the control sees that as no change in the water level, sending the error code for long drain.

Also, check for a pinched or kinked pressure switch hose, or a visible obstruction. After you repair the cause of the problem, perform a calibration, and test the washer.

That completes today’s post about error codes. As always, if you have any comments or anything to add, please let us know in the comments section. You know we love to hear from you!

Remember, Neli is always here to help with repairs and diagnosis. See you soon.

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