Welcome to another edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series from Neli. Today’s focus: The Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer
For the first time in a long time, Whirlpool actually has a quality stacked washer and dryer, the model WETLV27HV series. I’ve worked on every model over the years, and although all of the machines generally worked well, they all had problems.
Yes, every machine has its own set of problems, and that’s understandable. But to have persistent issues with noise, bad bearings, and having the tiresome taksk of going back and forth to the clients home with nagging problems.
I’m happy to say that the new Whirpool stacked washer and dryer finally broke through these problems. This washer/dryer duo is reliable and will continue to deliver good performance cycle after cycle.
I won’t lie to you and say it’s trouble-free. It’s a machine, and machines break. How much they break is what’s important. That said, I’ll review some features that will make your life easier when troubleshooting.
Control Pannel
This series doesn’t have a digital display, and that’s OK. Why? because you can troubleshoot using the LEDs on the control panel. Below is a screenshot of the user interface.
Below the washer dial are the status indicators. Different LEDs blink when there is an alarm, aside from telling you which part of the cycle is currently active.
Most Common Errors of the Whirlpool Stacked Washer and Dryer
By following the diagram below, you can get into the diagnostics of the machine. I’ve included the most common errors for this machine, but that’s not to say others won’t happen.
You can access the tech sheet from either behind the user interface or the front dryer access panel below the user interface.
Error Codes
If and when they happen, the error codes are usually accurate, so you can be confident that what you’re seeing is correct. There are times when the code gets you close, so you’ll have to troubleshoot further to find the exact cause.
F1E1 and F1E
In this group of codes, F1E1 and F1E2 are the most problematic. If you see either one, the control is gone and needs replacing. It’s possible to buy some time by cycling power, but don’t expect the machine to work for long.
If the control is totally gone, a reset won’t work.
F7 Codes
All the F7 codes have to do with a speed or position sensing error. For these, confirm the basket isn’t locked up. That causes F7E1 and sometimes F7E7. But consider other causes like a bad shifter or a garment stuck between the basket and tub
As the code explanation shows, other causes for a speed error include the run capacitor, an issue with the gearcase or pulley system, or an unbalanced load. Run an empty drain/spin to see what happens.
Do you hear a spark sound occurring when the motor should be starting?
- Check the run capacitor. If the body of the cap is distorted in any way, replace it. Also, if the cap looks OK, check it with the capacitance checker on your meter. It should measure 45-50 ohms.
- If the cap is open, the machine will shut down immediately after pressing start when the motor tries to start.
What about a growling sound?
- When the gearcase bearing gets too bad, it binds and makes a growling sound, which sometimes leads to the basket being unable to move freely.
- The pulley system includes the splutch assembly, which can bind and cause a loud grinding sound, once again causing the basket speed fault in bad cases.
Shift Actuator
- The shift actuator has two functions. One is the speed sensor and the other is the linkage attached to its motor. The linkage moves the splutch up and down to engage or disengage spin or agitation. Normally, you’ll get an error code when this happens, but not always.
Calibration
Remember to always perform a calibration after all the repairs are finished. If you don’t, you can’t expect the washer to run the way it should. Below is the procedure for calibration.
Once calibration starts, allow it to finish. It takes about 2 minutes or so. For more information, you can refer to the tech sheet included with every machine.
Neli is always here for you
I hope this information helps you troubleshoot your Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer, should the need arise. Like I said earlier, you may never need to work on the unit, but it’s always good to know where to find information if necessary.
Good luck, and if you need help with troubleshooting or the repair, be sure to set up an appointment at Neli. We can walk you through any problem and help with the repair, too.
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New washer first load washed and drained then it would click and and not continue into rinse took clothes out still will not continue washer light just blinks and then clicks like metal. The trouble shooting said it could be a drain so we took off drain and it ran water out good and initially the first drain ran good also could the drain be too high?