WGD6120HC Series Error Codes
F1E1 Main Control Fault (ACU)
Indicates no voltage detected at the heater relay or main control (ACU) problem.
Unplug dryer or disconnect power and check that the wires are plugged into the heater element(s) and the relay(s) on the ACU.
F2E1 Indicates a stuck button (depressed for over 20 seconds).
This fault code will ONLY appear when in the service diagnostic menu. The only symptom is the HMI (User Interface) either failed completely or is intermittent.
At this point, you need to confirm if the ACU or HMI has failed. Remove the console from the top and disconnect the HMI harness from the ACU (J2).
Reconnect power. At the header on the ACU for the HMI connector, check for +5VDC. Pin 4 is GROUND, and Pin 2 is +5VDC. DO NOT SHORT THE PINS WITH THE METER LEADS. It’s best to use needle-leads for this measurement because the space is limited.
After the ACU stabilizes, you should find +5VDC from the ACU at the J2 header. If you don’t, suspect the ACU. If you measure +5VDC at the ACU, but the HMI still doesn’t work, suspect the HMI. Check continuity of the HMI harness. If that checks OK, replace the HMI.
F2E2 HMI Disconnected
The HMI has detected an internal fault. Use the same troubleshooting steps for F2E1. It’s likely the HMI failed.
F3E1 Open or Shorted Exhaust Thermistor
Indicates that the exhaust thermistor is open or shorted. If the temperature drops below 18°F (> 50k ohms), the exhaust thermistor is open. If the temperature is above 250°F (< 500 ohms), the exhaust thermistor has shorted. May occur if the J14 connector is not plugged into the ACU.
F3E2 Open or Shorted Moisture Sensor
Indicates the moisture sensor strip is open or shorted. When these go bad, they mess with the dry times – usually to the point where the dryer runs for hours.
F3E3 Open or Shorted Inlet Thermistor (not available on all models)
Indicates that the inlet thermistor is open or shorted. If the temperature drops below 18°F (> 245k ohms), the inlet thermistor is open. If the temperature is above 391°F (< 328 ohms), the inlet thermistor has shorted.
F3E5 Open or Shorted Moisture Sensor – Rear (not available on all models)
Indicates the moisture sensor strip is open or shorted.
F6E1 Communication Error – HMI and ACU
Communication between the ACU and HMI has not been detected. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check harness connection and continuity between the ACU and HMI.
That’s the full list of error codes. Notice nothing mentions the interior of the machine. This model is the gas version, and it comes with its own set of possible issues. In closing, I’d like to offer a tip about intermittent heat.
Intermittent Heat in the WGD6120HC Gas Dryer
Many times, when the flame goes out after less than about 30 seconds, a clogged vent is the culprit. But other times it’s not that easy. One of the most common causes of poor regulation of heat aside from a clogged vent is the ignition coils, part number 279834 for the kit.
When the ignition coils begin to fail, one or both will chatter and make a rattling sound. To confirm whether they’re bad, remove the plastic inspection hole cover located on the front of the machine toward the bottom corner.
Start a timed cycle, watch through the inspection hole, and listen. Normally, you will hear them energize and the ignitor begins to glow. When the flame sensor reaches temperature, it opens thereby applying power to the ignition coil. 
Current now flows through the coil which opens the gas valve, with gas ignition next as it reaches the red-hot ignitor. The flame stays on until the control thermostat cycles off the heat, removing current flow to the coils and shutting off the gas supply until the next heating cycle.
When the ignition coils fail, and you’re lucky enough to catch it in the act, you’ll see the ignitor glow, then shut off with no gas ignition. Continue watching as the cycle repeats in a minute or so. It may work the next time, but not again until after several tries. Finally, it will stop heating completely.
It’s a simple fix to replace the coils. Remove the front panel and you’ll have access to them right in front. Use a stubby Phillips to remove the retainer plate. Remove the plate and replace the coils, paying attention to the orientation of the connectors and the coils. Replace the retainer plate, reinstall the front panel, and test.
This concludes yet another day in the continuing saga of DIY appliance repair. There is always something to learn and hopefully, you will find this interesting and helpful.
Remember, if you need help with your appliance any time, please check us out. Neli is a one-of-a-kind virtual appliance repair company designed for you, the DIYer that would rather fix it yourself instead of paying someone to do it for you.
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