There are many dishwasher models that sooner than later, become constant headaches. This Whirlpool series works well. So good, in fact, that it feels good to write about a machine I can say I have faith in its operation.
Before you think I’ve lost it, hear me out first. You may already know I’ve been a technician for a long time, and I’ve seen my share of dishwashers that make me want to scratch my head to figure out why they made it this way.
I know some techs reading this agree with me. After seeing enough machines that don’t cut it, so to speak, I appreciate seeing some that make sense in their design, and will stay fixed whenever they need repair, which isn’t often.
The Whirlpool I’m talking about today meets our stringent specs as a technician favorite! Of course, all machines need repair, but what sets the good ones apart from the others is how often they break, and is it a single, repetitive problem or does the machine have constant breakdowns from different causes?
1-1 or 1-2 error code usually means a failed control. With the newer Whirlpool dishwashers, if you see a 1-1 error code, the control is probably shorted at the K1 relay on the control.
2-2 error is the user interface. It lost its communication with the control. Check the harness, because sometimes it’s only a loose connection. If you find nothing wrong, you should replace the UI.
3-1, 3-2, 3-3 error codes relate to the Thermistor/Optical Water Indicator (OWI) and its calibration. The sensor looks for the cleanliness of the water and trips when the water temperature it out of range. This error code requires troubleshooting to find the cause. For this problem, it’s best to contact Neli for an appointment.
4-3 error code points directly to the wash motor. Fortunately, this error is not as frequent as it once was. Most of the time, the motor bearings are at fault and won’t allow the motor to start. It’s much less hassle to replace the sump assembly instead of the wash motor by itself, unless you have the proper clamps to do the job, and you’re sure the inverter is fine and the gasket isn’t leaking.
Before replacing the wash motor or sump, confirm the motor is the problem by checking for rotation. Also, if you’re not getting power to the motor after confirming the motor circuit, replace the control. This is another instance where you should contact Neli for help.
5-1 or 5-2 error codes show door closing issues. Most times, just opening and closing the door will solve the problem and reset the door switch, or by pressing the Start/Resume key on the UI resets the code. If the codes still show, drop power and check all the connections inside the door. It doesn’t happen often, but the harness or switch inside the housing might be the problem.
6-1 thru 6-4 error codes show a problem with water leaking or not entering machine. If your dishwasher has any of these codes showing, it’s best to turn off the water and power to the unit. Water leaking that’s visible is much easier to work with than water entering, but not detected.
Now it’s time to take a bright flashlight with a good set of eyes and find the source of the leak, if there is one, and run a fill test to confirm your findings. Add water and allow a pre-wash to start as you watch under the sump for any signs of water. While it’s filling, open the door to confirm the water stops filling. If it doesn’t stop, you likely have a water inlet valve stuck open.
Turn off the water immediately and order a new valve. If water doesn’t come in at all, we need to help you find out why. Yes, it could be a simple problem, but it could also be more serious, which is why two heads are better than one.
Next up is the heater. 7-1 and 7-2 error codes show either no heat detected or a stuck heater relay on the control. Whirlpool vastly improved the heaters in the new dishwasher models. 10 years ago, the heaters were constantly failing until they beefed up the relays and the controls.
If you suspect a bad heater today, it’s best to go into diagnostics and check there. Or remove the dishwasher and use your meter to check continuity of the heater. Be sure to disconnect one lead from the heater before checking to avoid a bad reading.
If the heater checks good and you still have no heat, check it through diagnostics (remember the 1,2,3 button sequence three times to enter). Allow the test cycle to run, then open the door 15 seconds after the drain stops, then pour water on the heater to hear a sizzle.
The heater activates for 30 seconds after the drain stops at the end of the test cycle. It’s a quick and easy way to test the heater and circuit. If the heater never turns off, suspect a stuck relay on the control which requires a replacement.
8-2 or 8-3 error codes show a drain problem. These are straightforward. If the pump won’t turn off, it’s likely caused by the control. If won’t turn on, check the motor windings and the harness connection. If the pump runs but doesn’t drain water, check the impeller, sump, and drain hoses all the way to the sink or house drain.
9-1 thru 9-3 error codes show the diverter is running constantly or not at all. The control sees them as position errors, and you must remove the sump assembly to troubleshoot. First, listen for the hum from the diverter before deciding it’s not turning. Sometimes the white disc inside the sump is missing or not positioned correctly.
10-1 error codes are rare, but they happen. So, if you see one of these codes, you will probably end up replacing the dispenser, but there’s an outside chance the control is bad, too.
12-1 thru 12-7 error codes are for provisioning the wireless capabilities of the dishwasher. The problems with Wi-Fi are best solved onsite, using the customer’s use and care guide.
Whirlpool Smart dishwashers are nice units, and people love them. Not so much for the wireless features, but the dependability of the new dishwashers is impressive and getting better. As with any appliance, they have their moments and breakdown. But like I said, when they’re fixed right, the repairs last as they should.
Remember, you always have Neli ready and willing to help you through the tough spots with repairs. Contact us any time for help.
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I’m getting codes 4-3 and 7-1 and both work. But when ots done washing it has the sanitize light blinking. = control board?
Hi Gregg,
The 4-3 error code is telling us the motor is not running. The 7-1 code indicates a no heat condition. Without being there and checking, my first thought is the main control, especially knowing that after the cycle, the sanitize light blinks. We don’t know if that’s caused by an open heater or a circuit problem inside the control. Too hard to determine 100% without more troubleshooting. Feel free to book an appointment with us and we’ll walk you through.
Thomas @ Neli
Same error codes as the above client. I had a new dishwasher installed back in May 2022
It worked for 3 washes. 7-1 has resolved by running water before to heat the water temp to hot. Then it was 6-4 pointing to motor pump. Now after waiting all this time for a work order I decided to hire a technician. Refreshing my memory on all tech spec sheets (other models) It is now reading 3-3 flash 4-3. Stranger than fiction that a brand-new machine could be so disappointing. WDF520PADM 9