Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. Today’s post is about the popular Whirlpool wall oven combo, series model WOC54EC7H. I’ll review the most common error codes and how to access them. Remember to follow directions and always troubleshoot any previously stored errors first, and reboot the oven. If no errors come up after a few minutes, clear the codes from memory or the oven may behave differently than you expect.
Before starting, note that this oven sometimes won’t heat after a cold reboot because the Appliance Manager (ACU) has to wait until the user interface control (HMI) finishes its boot sequence. It’s never been a problem as long as you wait about 15 minutes before using it. But it’s not a common issue, just something to keep in mind.
To make things easier to remember, the microwave Copernicus ACU (appliance manager) is on the left side of the microwave (combo unit only), and the main control is on top in the center, called the microwave ACU.
The oven ACU is also on the left side of the oven in combo units only. Otherwise, locate the ACUs on top of the upper oven cavity.
Here’s how to enter diagnostics to view the error codes and clear them. Refer to Option B to clear the error codes.
The F1E0 error code may show an erroneous code generated by another existing code, or a faulty ACU. Hard to say for sure, but check the stored codes first and work on those. Then, reboot the system and give it time to finish. Wait a few minutes, and if no errors occur, go back into diagnostics and clear any stored error codes, and reboot again. You’re good to go if no other error codes occur.
If the F1E0 reoccurs, you can be confident the user interface has failed.
It’s been my experience that anytime an F1E1 showed up, the Copernicus ACU (appliance manager) failed. To date, I’ve never had both the appliance manager and the HMI user interface fail together. But never say never!
Some of you may have already seen this one. The F4E1 is the error for the cavity thermistor. If you check the thermistor and it’s shorted, you can get away with replacing it and all should be good. If it checks OK (about 230k), you’ll have to replace the microwave appliance manager.
The door latch error, F5E1, is relatively rare on newer models. The latch motor fails more often on older units because of age and little use. You’ll have to remove the wall oven from its hole to access the motor assembly. Not fun, but doable. Just remember to have either an oven cart or a sturdy table ready to go, plus some help from some strong friends.
The F8E0-1-2-3 error is a cooling fan speed problem. The unit will not run with this error showing. Most of the time the hall sensor connected to the fan via a new style harness fails and throws the error code. Other times, the fan bearings gum up and try to stall the fan. Worst case would be the oven ACU causing the problem. The cooling fan sits in the back near the top of the oven. This is another time when you’ll have to remove the oven from its hole completely to access everything.
Microwave “Door” Alarm
If you see the word “DOOR” on the display, it’s telling you the microwave door switches don’t agree. That means either the primary or secondary switch failed. Remove the oven from its hole and remove the top covers to access the switches. Look for them on both sides of the oven, near the top. Don’t let a switch that just looks good fool you. Check it with a meter. The same goes for the monitor switch, too. It’s best to replace all three switches, but check each switch before replacing them. Doing so could save you the hassle of removing all the covers again.
This concludes the latest edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. We hope it helped you immensely! Remember to check the Tech Sheet included with your oven for everything talked about here in much more detail. If you run into any problems or you need some help, set up a diagnosis with Neli and we’ll walk you through everything!
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