There was a time when the All-In-One machines from any manufacturer were horrible. Some still are. But this new Whirlpool actually works. I think they learned from the others about how NOT to make this machine.
We’re just beginning another adventure into the wonderful world of DIY appliance repair, and today we’re talking about the new (circa 2018) WFC8090GX Series All In One, washer and dryer. The operation is unique, and I won’t go into that because you can get the whole service manual from Whirlpool if needed.
These are handy machines, and as I said, they do work – consistently. That’s important with this type of machine because so often the older styles had problems with moisture (duh) and clogged ducts. So. if you’re ready, let’s dive into the common problems and associated troubleshooting steps.
WFC8090GX Error Codes and Troubleshooting
F0E2 – Suds error – This is one that keeps coming up on all machines because we still insist on using non-HE soap or too much regular HE soap and end up paying the price. If the error shows up, it’s already too late for the machine to try and correct the problem. By the way, if your HE soap easily produces suds, check the brand and change to a better one. HE soap shouldn’t ever produce many suds if any.
Try an empty rinse and spin to get rid of the extra soap, double-check the drain cycle. If it looks like soap was never the issue, you may have a clogged drain or a broken impeller on the pump. You can also check the pressure switch hose for small pinholes, too.
F0E3 – High temp error – First, power cycle the machine to clear any erroneous signals, then check the TCO or thermal cutoff in the dry heating element circuit. Sometimes the dry fan motor quits or slows down.
F0E4 – High temp error in the wash cycle – This one is common. Make sure the cold water line connects to the machine. This unit has only one water inlet valve, and it’s meant only for cold water. The machine heats the water when needed.
F0E5 – Off-balance load – Just like with all other recent Whirlpool washers, the control picks up the extra current draw from either an unbalanced load that causes the spikes in current or a load that’s too heavy. Be thankful this error exists because it has stopped many machines from destroying themselves because of extra weight or a severely unbalanced load.
F1E2 – MCU voltage error. The Motor Control Unit sensed an under or overvoltage condition. Check the motor circuit.
F1E4 – Failed Main Relay on the ACU – This isn’t all that common, but I thought it would be good to know in case it comes up. A failed main relay usually means the ACU needs replacing. There are no parts available to replace the relay.
F6E1 – Communication error between the ACU and MCU (appliance control unit and motor control unit) – If a reboot doesn’t correct the problem, the likely cause is the HMI (user interface). Check for continuity in the cable between connector J17 on the ACU to connector J3 on the MCU.
F6E2 – Communication error between the ACU and MCU. This is identical to the F6E1 error except this time check the cable between ACU – J16 and HMI – CN1. If the cable checks well for either error code, the HMI is still the likely cause.
F7E2 – MCU over temp error probably caused by an overly heavy load or a garment stuck between the basket and tub. Free-wheel the tub by hand to check for resistance. Also, check the harness between the ACU and the motor. I’ve seen many harnesses fail with no warning. If you find a break in the harness, save yourself the grief of trying to repair the break. It rarely works for long. Replace it and be done.
F7E3 – MCU overcurrent or internal failure. This isn’t common, but if you have no movement even without the alarm, blame the MCU. They’re a high-heat component and fail the soonest.
F9E1 – Long drain. You probably won’t see this error unless the pump stops moving completely due to a burned-out motor. Other times when you can hear the pump, it’s likely clogged, or the impeller is missing (broken off the motor shaft) or it’s worn down and can’t push water.
If it gets to this point, I wouldn’t bother cleaning it and expect it to work fine. After a few years of regular use, you will likely find the armature sitting in water due to a bad shaft seal. That bogs down the motor and it loses most of its torque.
Neli is Here to Help
This concludes another exciting venture into DIY appliance repair. We hope you guys find this information on the Whirlpool Series WFC8090GX useful. I know I would have back when I was starting out (yes, it was a very long time ago). But any time you feel like you’re in too deep, don’t forget to set up an appointment and we can walk you through just about any appliance issue out there. Thanks for reading!
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