DIY Appliance Repair Series | FGGH3047VF Frigidaire 30" Gas Range | Error Codes
True to form, Frigidaire introduced the first oven with air fry. The feature aside, this oven is deserving of some high praise because it’s a solid unit. People love the fact that the oven temps are accurate and it regulates well.
Not to rain on your parade, but as the unit gets used daily, problems do come up. Fortunately, they’re not deal-breakers that force you to push the range to the curb.
Most of the issues arise from not cleaning the unit periodically. The burners and burner heads need cleaning regardless of their appearance. Heck, put them in the dishwasher if you don’t feel like cleaning them by hand. But clean them often. A gas range needs a little TLC on a regular basis.
As for the oven, it needs cleaning, too. If you want to use the self-clean function, great! But after that finishes, be sure to follow up with some manual cleaning. As good as the self-clean function is, it can’t remove everything that must go.
Ok, so enough about cleaning. I felt I should mention it because if you keep your appliances clean, especially the range, it will pay you back in spades with trouble free performance for years to come. Let’s get down to the reason we’re here, shall we?
By the way, I understand this model can get confusing when troubleshooting. If that’s ever the case and you need some help, set up an appointment with us. We’ll help you through.
FGGH3047VF Error Codes
F01 F02 F04 F05 Touch panel failure.
Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If fault returns upon power-up replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F03 The oven user interface board is incorrectly configured.
Replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel). Make sure you install the latest revision available for this model.
F10 Oven temperature runaway.
The cavity temperature has been detected in excess of the maximum safe operating temperature:
- If the oven is overheating, disconnect power. Check the oven temperature probe (RTD) and replace if necessary.
- If the oven temperature probe is good and if the oven continues to overheat when power is reapplied, replace the oven relay board.
F11 Stuck key.
A keypress has been detected and pressed continuously for 30 seconds or more. If the error code won’t release, or comes back when any button is pressed, test the harness between the oven user interface (connectors I2C1 and I2C2).
If everything checks good but the code won’t clear, replace the control assembly and touch panel.
F12 Keyboard configuration alarm.
The oven user interface board received from the touch panel a key code that does not match the key map. Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds, and reapply power. If the fault returns upon power-up, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If fault returns upon power-up replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F13 Data written to non-volatile memory has failed verification.
Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If fault returns upon power-up replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F15 Keyboard error.
Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. If fault returns upon power-up replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F16 The oven user interface board cannot read the potentiometers.
- Verify that potentiometers are in OFF position correctly, disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If the fault returns, verify the harness going to the POTS connector of the user interface board to both potentiometer components.
- If the fault persists, replace the potentiometers.
- If the fault still persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F17 The oven user interface board is unable to configure the touch panel.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If fault returns, verify the harness going to the I2C1 or I2C2 connector of the touch panel.
- If fault persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F18 Oven relay board failure (wiggler).
Replace the oven relay board.
F19 The oven user interface board is unable to configure the oven relay board.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If the fault returns, verify connection between the oven user interface board (MACS1 or MACS2 connector) and the oven relay board (connector J3 or J4).
- If the fault persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
- If fault persists, replace the relay board.
F22 Communication failure between the oven user interface board and the oven relay board.
- Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. Check if error condition is still there.
- Test wiring harness between oven user interface board (connector MACS1 or MACS2) and oven relay board (connector J3 or J4).
- If the wiring harness is good, replace the oven relay board.
- If the problem persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F23 Communication failure between the oven user interface board and the glass touch panel.
- Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power. Check if the error condition is still there.
- Test wiring harness between oven user interface board (connector I2C1 or I2C2) and touch panel (connector I2C1 or I2C2).
- If the wiring harness is good, replace the touch panel.
- If the problem persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F25 F27 The communication between the over user interface and the oven relay board cannot be initiated.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If fault returns, verify connection between the oven user interface board (MACS1 or MACS2 connector) and the oven relay board (connector J3 or J4).
- If fault persists, replace the relay board.
- If fault persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F28 F29 The communication between the over user interface and the touch panel cannot be initiated.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If fault returns, verify the touch panel is connected (verify harness going to I2C1 or I2C2 connector) and is getting power from the oven user interface.
- If fault persists, replace the control assembly (UIB and touch panel).
F30 Open oven temperature sensor (RTD)
F31 Shorted oven temperature probe (RTD)
- Check probe circuit wiring for possible open or short conditions.
- Verify RTD resistance at room temperature (compare to probe resistance chart).
- If resistance does not match the chart, replace the RTD probe. If the problem persists, replace the oven relay board.
RTD Resistance Chart:
F33 Meat probe temperature sensor shorted or too hot.
- The error is triggered if the meat probe sees a temperature in excess of 392°F. Make sure the meat probe was not used in such a way that it could have seen such temperature. If the tip of the probe is not inserted in the meat it will see the cavity temperature, which can be higher than 392°F (depending on the setpoint) and trigger the alarm.
- When the meat probe is connected to the socket inside the oven cavity, if the meat probe is not fully inserted into the socket it may short the contacts and cause the error. Make sure the probe is inserted as much as it can.
- Verify meat probe resistance at room temperature. Compared to the meat probe resistance chart. If the meat probe does not match the chart, replace it.
- If the above steps failed to correct the problem, replace the oven relay board.
F50 A/D Out of Range: the oven relay board is unable to read the status of the switches (door, MDL).
- Check to ensure that the connections between the door switch, MDL and temp probes are properly connected. This includes all splices and junctions.
- If the above step failed to correct the problem, replace the oven relay board.
F90 Motor Door Lock mechanism failure. The oven control does not see the Motor Door Lock running.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power. Try again to make the door lock or unlock (ex: initiate a Lockout or a Clean cycle).
- Check if the Lock Motor is running or not. If it is not running, test the wiring between the Lock Motor and the oven relay board. If the wiring is good, check if there is 120VAC at the motor when it is expected to run to see if the failure originates from a bad motor (120VAC present but not turning) or a problem with the relay board (J20 pin 10 on the oven relay board is the output to the Lock Motor). The Lock Motor can also be tested by applying 120VAC directly to the motor (unplug it from the relay board first). If the Lock Motor does not run when 120VAC is applied replace the Lock Motor Assembly. If it is the relay board that does not provide 120VAC to the Lock Motor replace the oven relay board.
- If the Lock Motor is running but the oven control cannot find the locked or unlocked position (ex: motor turns continuously until F90 fault code is generated) the Lock Switch needs to be verified. Check wiring between Lock Switch and oven relay board. Verify with ohmmeter if the switch makes contact properly (verify continuity with ohmmeter when the switch is pressed). If the Lock Switch is defective replace the Motor Lock Assembly.
- If all above steps failed to correct the situation, replace the oven relay board.
F95 Motor Door Lock mechanism failure. The Motor Door Lock does not stop running or the Lock Switch sends an invalid signal.
- The problem can be caused by a faulty Lock Switch or by a defective oven relay board. If the Motor Door Lock is always running (as if the relay controlling it is stuck closed) replace the oven relay board.
- If the motor is not always running, replace the Motor Lock Assembly.
F96 The oven door has been detected open during a Self Clean cycle.
- This error occurs if the door switch has lost its contact during a Self Clean cycle. Make sure the oven door closes well and fully presses on the door switch plunger when the door is locked, and no one attempts to pull on the oven door during the Self Clean cycle.
- Test continuity of wiring between the door switch and the oven relay board, make sure the door switch is well connected. With an ohmmeter, verify the switch is closed when the plunger is pressed. If the door switch is found to be defective replace the door switch.
- If the switch and wiring are good and the problem persists, replace the oven relay board.
F97 MDL invalid state. Relay board (OVC) sensed the motor door lock in a state it should not be in according to the user interface board.
- Disconnect power to the unit, wait 30 seconds, then reapply power.
- If fault persists, replace the motor door lock.
- If fault persists, replace the oven relay board.
We hope this information helps our DIY friends out there to get their appliances working again, or at least have a better understanding of the issue you're facing. It doesn't hurt to be armed with good information when an error code decides to pop up and attempts to ruin your dinner! Remember, we're here for you.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | Whirlpool WGD6120HC Series Gas Dryer | Error Codes
WGD6120HC Series Error Codes
F1E1 Main Control Fault (ACU)
Indicates no voltage detected at the heater relay or main control (ACU) problem.
Unplug dryer or disconnect power and check that the wires are plugged into the heater element(s) and the relay(s) on the ACU.
F2E1 Indicates a stuck button (depressed for over 20 seconds).
This fault code will ONLY appear when in the service diagnostic menu. The only symptom is the HMI (User Interface) either failed completely or is intermittent.
At this point, you need to confirm if the ACU or HMI has failed. Remove the console from the top and disconnect the HMI harness from the ACU (J2).
Reconnect power. At the header on the ACU for the HMI connector, check for +5VDC. Pin 4 is GROUND, and Pin 2 is +5VDC. DO NOT SHORT THE PINS WITH THE METER LEADS. It’s best to use needle-leads for this measurement because the space is limited.
After the ACU stabilizes, you should find +5VDC from the ACU at the J2 header. If you don’t, suspect the ACU. If you measure +5VDC at the ACU, but the HMI still doesn’t work, suspect the HMI. Check continuity of the HMI harness. If that checks OK, replace the HMI.
F2E2 HMI Disconnected
The HMI has detected an internal fault. Use the same troubleshooting steps for F2E1. It’s likely the HMI failed.
F3E1 Open or Shorted Exhaust Thermistor
Indicates that the exhaust thermistor is open or shorted. If the temperature drops below 18°F (> 50k ohms), the exhaust thermistor is open. If the temperature is above 250°F (< 500 ohms), the exhaust thermistor has shorted. May occur if the J14 connector is not plugged into the ACU.
F3E2 Open or Shorted Moisture Sensor
Indicates the moisture sensor strip is open or shorted. When these go bad, they mess with the dry times – usually to the point where the dryer runs for hours.
F3E3 Open or Shorted Inlet Thermistor (not available on all models)
Indicates that the inlet thermistor is open or shorted. If the temperature drops below 18°F (> 245k ohms), the inlet thermistor is open. If the temperature is above 391°F (< 328 ohms), the inlet thermistor has shorted.
F3E5 Open or Shorted Moisture Sensor – Rear (not available on all models)
Indicates the moisture sensor strip is open or shorted.
F6E1 Communication Error – HMI and ACU
Communication between the ACU and HMI has not been detected. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check harness connection and continuity between the ACU and HMI.
That’s the full list of error codes. Notice nothing mentions the interior of the machine. This model is the gas version, and it comes with its own set of possible issues. In closing, I’d like to offer a tip about intermittent heat.
Intermittent Heat in the WGD6120HC Gas Dryer
Many times, when the flame goes out after less than about 30 seconds, a clogged vent is the culprit. But other times it’s not that easy. One of the most common causes of poor regulation of heat aside from a clogged vent is the ignition coils, part number 279834 for the kit.
When the ignition coils begin to fail, one or both will chatter and make a rattling sound. To confirm whether they’re bad, remove the plastic inspection hole cover located on the front of the machine toward the bottom corner.
Start a timed cycle, watch through the inspection hole, and listen. Normally, you will hear them energize and the ignitor begins to glow. When the flame sensor reaches temperature, it opens thereby applying power to the ignition coil. 
Current now flows through the coil which opens the gas valve, with gas ignition next as it reaches the red-hot ignitor. The flame stays on until the control thermostat cycles off the heat, removing current flow to the coils and shutting off the gas supply until the next heating cycle.
When the ignition coils fail, and you’re lucky enough to catch it in the act, you’ll see the ignitor glow, then shut off with no gas ignition. Continue watching as the cycle repeats in a minute or so. It may work the next time, but not again until after several tries. Finally, it will stop heating completely.
It’s a simple fix to replace the coils. Remove the front panel and you’ll have access to them right in front. Use a stubby Phillips to remove the retainer plate. Remove the plate and replace the coils, paying attention to the orientation of the connectors and the coils. Replace the retainer plate, reinstall the front panel, and test.
This concludes yet another day in the continuing saga of DIY appliance repair. There is always something to learn and hopefully, you will find this interesting and helpful.
Remember, if you need help with your appliance any time, please check us out. Neli is a one-of-a-kind virtual appliance repair company designed for you, the DIYer that would rather fix it yourself instead of paying someone to do it for you.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | Whirlpool WFC7500VW0 | Error Codes
The model WFC7500VW0 we’re looking at today arrived on the market around 2008 but is still around. It’s a compact unit at 24” wide and fits nicely in tight spaces.
This machine is a good indicator of how much front load washers changed in the 10 years since their introduction.
When you open this machine up and look around, it doesn’t look like a normal Whirlpool washer – because it isn’t.
I won’t go into why but suffice it to say that Whirlpool still makes most parts for this machine which should show you how popular this machine is in 2022.
If you own one of these units, take comfort in knowing they work well and normally don’t break down because of a bad design. I could name a few that do, but I won’t go into that.
Like every other machine ever made, they will break and cause a headache sometimes. But that’s the nature of man-made machines. When you learn how to fix them, you’re in a much better place.
But as always, if you run into a problem that you don’t understand or if you need more help, feel free to book an appointment at Neli. We can help you troubleshoot the problem and get things going again.
I like how the error codes for this model are almost always spot on. Other manufacturers will get you close, but rarely nail it like Whirlpool. That said, let’s continue to the error codes. I left out a few obscure codes you will probably never see. Remember you can always refer to the Tech Sheet located on the inside cover of the bottom panel.
WFC7500VW0 Fault/Error Codes
A09
No water detected entering machine or the pressure switch trip wasn’t detected. Water level is not reached within a defined time in normal wash cycle.
A10
Long drain. If the drain time exceeds 4 minutes, the water valves turn off. Rotate the selection knob to clear the display.
F01
Similar to the A09 error. No pressure switch trip detected based on a timer in the EEPROM parameter set in the main control. This error happens when no water entered the unit, hoses are kinked, or the inlet water faucets are off.
F02
Overflow condition (flood mode). If the pressure switch doesn’t detect a drop in water level at the right time, it’s assumed there’s a clogged pump or the inlet valves are stuck open. In either case, the machine keeps the door locked and turns on the drain pump for approximately 10 minutes, then unlocks the door.
CAUTION: If water is still in the basket, confirm the level isn’t high enough to leak out before opening the door.
F03
Long drain. After 4 minutes of drain time and water still remains, this error code shows. It’s a probable sign of a clogged or defective drain pump.
F05
Water temperature sensor is out of range. If the negative temperature coefficient thermistor (NTC) senses temps below 23 Degrees F or above 217 Degrees F during a wash cycle, this error code will show.
F06
Drive motor tachometer error. If the control can’t detect motor speed, the machine shuts down.
F07
Motor overspeed. Whenever the control can’t control the motor speed, the motor turns off, and the control waits for a zero RPM reading. It will then try again and throw the error code if the same problem occurs.
F13
Door lock error. If the door doesn’t lock after several attempts within 10 seconds, the error shows.
F14 & F21
These are communication errors that usually result in the replacement of one or both of the CCU and the UI. Before condemning either board, reseat all the connections to the boards. You can also use the Tech Sheet included with your machine for help in diagnosing.
F22
Load detected during a clean washer cycle.
The auto-sensing circuit will detect a forgotten load inside the machine when you attempt a clean cycle. Remove the load and continue.
F23
Pressure switch error. Don’t argue with this one. The water level doesn’t agree with the CCU EEPROM settings. Replace the pressure switch.
F24
Water inlet valve leakage or overflow failure. The pressure switch detected an overflow condition more than 5 times, with each occurrence shorter than 2 seconds. This means the water level is increasing inside the washer when it’s not expected.
F27 & F28
Motor control unit failure (MCU). Either a motor reversing error or a high-speed switch error caused the problem. Replace the MCU.
F29
Door switch error. This means the control did not detect the door was opened or closed for the 3 consecutive cycles.
F30
Door lock broken or door switch error. The control detected an open in the door switch with the door locked.
Fod
Suds lock (overdose of detergent). If the pressure switch detects suds during the drain cycle or during spin, the washer automatically enters the Suds Detection Mode.
The washer fills with ¾ gallon of water, rests for 10 minutes with no agitation. After, the drain cycle starts. If the error occurred during the spin cycle, the machine starts spinning again.
We hope this information helps you troubleshoot your washer and get it running again. But as you know, you can always reach out to us and book an appointment with one of our certified technicians. We’re always glad to help!
Neli Appliance Repair Series | WFW8620HC Whirlpool Front Load Washer Error Codes
If you’ve owned any Whirlpool front load washers over the years, you already know how much they’ve improved.
Remember the early days when they often went out of balance and walked across the floor during spin?
It’s looking more like the engineers at Whirlpool found the solution. But that’s not to say these machines don’t dance a little.
You still need to pay attention to load sizes and common-sense use of the machine. Other than that, this machine does a great job all around. I could go on about the features, but I don’t think that’s why you’re reading this.
Instead, I’ll go through the most important error codes that you may see. The good thing is when you repair a Whirlpool, they stay fixed and don’t have repetitive problems.
The WFW8620H Series
Before I get into the error code list, below you will see instructions showing you what they mean and how to access them. Please, if you’re not familiar with your machine, don’t try this because you can inadvertently change settings and cause a problem.
Talk to a local tech, or simply book an appointment with Neli and we’ll help you through everything.
Understanding the Presentation of Error Codes
Fault codes are displayed by showing F# and E#. All fault codes have an F# and an E#. The F# indicates the suspect System/ Category. The E# indicates the suspect Component system.
Up to ten Fault/Error codes may be stored. When the oldest fault code is displayed, the following press of the 3rd button will result in a triple beep, then display of the most recent fault code.
If each press of the 3rd button results in a triple beep and the display shows “BBB” or “BB”, no saved fault codes are present.
Entry Procedure
The most recent fault code is shown as soon as Service Diagnostic mode is entered.
Advancing Through Saved Fault Codes
To view the next-most-recent fault code, press the 3rd button used to activate the Service Diagnostic mode. Subsequent presses of the 3rd button will advance the display through the saved fault codes.
Clearing Fault Codes
To clear fault codes, enter Service Diagnostic mode. Then press and hold the 3rd button used to enter Service Diagnostic mode for 5 seconds. Once the fault codes are successfully erased, the seven-segment display will show “888” or “88”.
Exit Procedure
To exit Fault/Error Codes, press the POWER button. All indicators will turn off, and the machine will return to STANDBY mode.
ACTIVATING THE SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off).
After initial power is applied, wait 30 seconds before activating Service Diagnostic mode.
Select any three (3) buttons (except POWER) and follow the steps below, using the same buttons. Remember the buttons and the order that the buttons were pressed.
Within 8 seconds,
Press and Release the 1st selected button,
Press and Release the 2nd selected button,
Press and Release the 3rd selected button.
Repeat this 3-button sequence 2 more times.
If the Service Diagnostic mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with “BBS” or “B8” showing in the Estimated Time Remaining seven-segment display.
If there are no saved fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off and then only the seven-segment display will come back on and display “bbb” or “bb”.
NOTE: The Service Diagnostic mode will time out after 10 minutes of user inactivity or shut down if AC power is removed.
FAULT/ERROR CODES
The fault codes below may be indicated under various conditions and can be accessed through Service Diagnostics.
F0E1
Load in drum during Clean Washer cycle. Always run the clean cycle with an empty basket.
F0E5
Off Balance Load.
Load could be unbalanced or too large. Avoid tightly packing the load and avoid washing single items. A too light load causes the basket to go out of balance because the weight isn’t evenly distributed around the basket.
If a load is too heavy for the machine, it will still try to spin but likely won’t be able to get to high speed. When this happens, the auto-correct cycle takes over and attempts to rebalance the load by draining and refilling, then agitating for a short time.
After a few attempts with no success, the machine drains the water and turns the machine off, leaving the load soaking wet. Be aware of this happening. Many people think it’s the machine’s fault, but in reality, the machine is working as designed.
By keeping the loads at a normal size (8” clearance from the top of basket when loaded with clothes), you shouldn’t have this error. If the error persists, there might be a mechanical issue at fault (dampers, for example. You should book an appointment and allow Neli to help solve the problem.
F1E2
MCU (Motor Control Unit) over- or under-voltage error.
Check your household voltage. Sometimes fluctuations in the incoming power will cause this error, especially when entering spin and ramping up to full speed.
F3E6
Accelerometer error.
You can check the connections at the ACU, but most of the time this is the death knell for the board. Luckily, this error is extremely rare.
F5E2
Lock Failure – Replace the door lock and possibly the strike.
F5E3
Unlock Failure – Check the lock and the door hinges.
F6E1
No communication from the HMI detected by ACU.
Replace the HMI.
F6E2
No communication from the ACU detected by the HMI.
Replace the ACU.
F6E3
No communication from the MCU detected by the ACU.
Replace the ACU.
F7E2
MC/MCU over temp error/internal failure.
Consider replacing the MCU.
F7E8
MC/Motor over temp error.
Check all harness connections, especially between the ACU and motor. Also, check for an obstruction between the basket and tub.
F7E9
Motor will not turn (locked rotor).
F7E12 or F7EC
MC/MCU Overload.
Check for obstruction between the spin basket and outer tub. The most common item is a garment wedged in the small space and preventing the basket from turning. Also check continuity and the connections between the ACU and motor.
F8E3
Overflow.
Make sure the drain hose and drain pump filter are not plugged, and verify the functionality of the water inlet valve, water level sensor, and drain pump.
F9E1
Long Drain.
Check drain hose installation for proper height, check drain hose and filter for obstructions, and make sure drain hose is not sealed into drain pipe. Check functionality of Drain Pump/Recirculation Pump.
There you have it. Another helpful (we hope) edition of the Neli's DIY Appliance Repair Series! As always, we welcome comments and suggestions any time.
Whirlpool WFW560CHW Series | Front Load Washer | Error Codes
Welcome to another fun-filled and educational edition of the Neli DIY Appliance Series! The Whirlpool WFW560CHW series of front load washers represent a new, err, newer line of washers that are sleeker and more modern looking than their predecessors.
I’m not sure anyone really cares how they look, but worry more about how they perform. From that perspective, I would say that in typical Whirlpool fashion, they’ve done an excellent job.
A few new error codes were added as the machine was designed, and I’ll talk about a few of them here. As always, refer to the Tech Sheet included with your machine for detailed information about the codes and troubleshooting.
We know you might not feel comfortable tackling some of the jobs with your washer. In that case, remember you can always book an appointment with Neli. We’ll help you troubleshoot and walk you through the repair and get your machine running again!
To begin troubleshooting your particular error code, you’ll have to access them by following these steps:
Activating the Service Diagnostic Mode
- Make sure your washer is on standby mode with all indicators off.
- Wait 30 seconds after the initial power has been applied before activating the Service Diagnostic mode.
- Choose any three (3) buttons (except for POWER) and then follow the steps below, and remember the buttons and the order in which they were pressed.
In 8 Seconds:
* Press and release the first selected button.
* Press and release the 2nd button.
* Press and release the third button selected;
* Continue the 3 button sequence two more times.
If the buttons chosen don’t work, choose another set that does. After you’re done, you may have to replace the HMI (human machine interface) a.k.a. User Interface.
After the Service Diagnostic mode is entered successfully, all indicators are illuminated for five seconds. "338" and "83" will be displayed in the Estimated Time remaining seven-segment displays. All indicators will temporarily turn off if there are no saved fault codes. The seven-segment display, however, will then display "888" and "88". The most recent error code shows immediately after entering the Service Diagnostic Mode. Press the 3rd key used to advance the display of other stored codes, if any.
NOTE: Service Diagnostic mode will shut down after 10 minutes of inactivity by the user, or if AC power is disconnected.
Error Codes
Remember when you’re reading the codes, the letter F is the category, and the letter E is the component the control says triggered the error code. They’re always stated like this: F#E#.
F0E5 - Off Balance Load. Load could be unbalanced or too large. Avoid tightly packing the load. Avoid washing single items.
F1E1 - Main relay open or shorted. Main relay issue. Replace ACU.
F1E2 - MCU over- or under-voltage error. Check household voltage.
F3E1 - Pressure sensor signal missing or out of range. Check or replace the water level sensor.
F3E5 - Dry NTC fault. Fault is displayed if the dry temperature sensor is out of range, or open circuit or short circuit is detected. The wash function is still operable, but the dry function will not operate. Note: Not on all models
F3E6 - Accelerometer error. Check or replace the ACU (main control).
F4E1 - Wash heater relay error or no feedback signal. Error is generated when the ACU cannot detect the temperature rise of the wash heater. Suspect the wash heater element.
F5E2 - Lock failure. Replace the door lock.
F5E3 - Unlock failure. Replace the door lock.
F6E1 - No communication from the HMI detected by ACU.
F6E2 - No communication from the ACU detected by the HMI.
F6E3 - No communication from the MCU detected by the ACU. Replace the ACU.
F7E8 - OR - F7E2MC/MCU over temp error or MC/MCU over current error/internal failure. Check for obstruction between the spin basket and outer tub. Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor.
F7E12 - OR - F7EC MC/MCU Overload. Check for obstruction between the spin basket and outer tub. Check harness continuity and connections between ACU and motor.
F8E1 - Valve failure. Water Inlet Valves
F8E3 - Overflow. Make sure the drain hose and drain pump filter are not plugged. Verify functionality of water inlet valve, water level sensor, and drain pump.
F9E1 - Long drain. Check drain hose installation for proper height, check drain hose and filter for obstructions, and make sure drain hose is not sealed into drain pipe.
If you like what you see, feel free to leave a comment below. We love hearing from you!
DIY Appliance Repair Series | WTW8127LW Whirlpool 2 in 1 Smart Top Load Washer | Error Codes
This week’s edition talks about the new Whirlpool 2-in-1 smart top load washer with a removable agitator. It’s a new feature that’s been long in coming. For years, my customers asked me if Whirlpool has a machine with an agitator like the good ole’ days, or one without.
Most times, the question was in the form of a complaint about the missing agitator. Now, folks can have it both ways in one machine. It’s a good thing and I’m glad Whirlpool listened.
Another thing about this machine is that it’s a little more advanced because it’s Smart, meaning WiFi capable and has its own set of error codes. But in addition to that, the error codes are getting more accurate as you will soon see. WP always did a good job a nailing down problems, but they’re changing things up and going deeper into the reason and the solution more than in the past.
So, let’s take a look at some of the newer error codes with this series of machines and others. The addition of these codes helps both the DIY’er and professional techs alike. It’s not that you didn’t already know the symptoms exist, but more that Whirlpool added them to their manuals after troubleshooting and testing.
** Remember to reference the complete tech sheet included with your machine for more details and for instructions about the various tests required for troubleshooting**
How to Access Service Mode
Error Codes
F0E2 – Oversuds
Fault is displayed when suds prevent the basket from spinning up to speed or the pressure sensor detects rising suds level. The main control will flush water in an attempt to clear suds. If the water flush is unable to correct the problem, this may indicate:
- Not using HE detergent.
- Excessive detergent usage.
- Check pressure hose connection from tub to main control. Is hose pinched, kinked, plugged, or leaking air?
- Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (items between basket and tub).
F0E3 - Overload
Fault is displayed when the main control detects a load size that exceeds the washer's capacity OR basket cannot be turned. This may signify:
- Load size exceeds washer capacity. Remove excess laundry, then restart the cycle.
- Mechanical friction on drive mechanism or basket (items between basket and tub).
F0E4 – Spin Limited by Water Temperature
Fault is displayed when the water temperature is too high to have spin at final speed. Speed will be limited to 500 RPM.
- Check water valve function. See TEST #2: Valves.
F0E8 - Water Ring
- Fault is displayed when too much residual water is detected.
- Run Drain and Spin Cycle.
F0E9 - OB Pause
- Fault is displayed when an off balance condition is detected and after user interventions.
- Check for weak suspension. Basket should not bounce up and down more than once when pushed.
- Items should be distributed evenly when loading.
F1E1 - Main Control (ACU) Fault
Fault is displayed indicating a main control (ACU) fault. • See TEST #1 : Main Control (ACU).
F1E2 – Motor Drive Module Over Voltage
Fault is stored when the main control detects a problem in the motor drive. • See TEST #3b: Drive System - Motor.
F2E1 - HMI Stuck Button
Fault is stored indicating that the user interface is detecting that a button is continuously activated. • See TEST #4: HMI.
F2E2 - HMI Disconnected
Fault is displayed if the HMI is disconnected from the ACU. • See TEST #4: HMI.
F3E5 - Mini Bulk System Error
Fault is displayed when the bulk level sensor signal is detected out of range.
- Check drawer for detergent.
- Run TEST #9: Load and Go Detergent.
F5E1 - Lid Switch Fault
F5E3 - Lid Lock Will Not Unlock
F5E4 - Lid Not Opened Between Cycles
Fault is displayed if lid is in locked state, but lid switch is open; control not sensing the strike in the lid lock.
- User presses START with lid open.
- The main control cannot detect the lid switch opening and closing properly.
- SEE TEST BELOW
TEST #8: Lid Lock
Perform the following checks if the washer does not lock (or unlock).
- Check the lid lock by performing Lid Lock test under Service Load Control Mode in Service Diagnostic Mode. The following steps assume that this step was unsuccessful.
- Unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Remove console to access main control.
- Visually check that the J6 connector is inserted all the way into the main control. If visual check passes, go to step 5.
- Check the lid lock motor winding and switches by removing J6 from the main control and checking the resistance values shown in the following table:
6. If the preceding steps did not correct the lock problem, replace the control.
a) Unplug washer or disconnect power.
b) Replace the main control.
c) Reassemble all parts and panels.
d) Plug in washer or reconnect power. Perform Service Diagnostics to verify repair.
F7E3 – Basket Engaged During Wash
F7E4 – Basket Re-engagement Failure
Fault is stored when the main control determines the shifter is not engaging the basket for spin or disengaging it for wash.
- Check shifter connectors.
- Check for clothing or another item wedged between the impeller and the basket that could bind them together.
- Check that the shifter slider moves freely.
- See TEST #3a: Drive System - Shifter.
As I said earlier, please refer to your tech sheet included with your machine. Most times it’s sitting under the main console (HMI). It’s best to make a copy for safekeeping.
The tech sheet lists all the tests and procedures that will allow you to properly troubleshoot and repair your machine. But as always, if you get stuck, we’re here to help you every step of the way. You can set up an appointment here.
We hope you found the information useful! Feel free to leave a comment below. We love hearing from you!
DIY Appliance Repair Series - Whirlpool WGE745C0FS Freestanding Double Oven - Error Codes
The Whirlpool WGE745C0FS double oven is the focus in this week’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. So far, only a handful of people experienced major issues like a blown control or an over-temp situation. But we know that every range has issues mostly caused by normal use. Today, we’ll take a look at some of the common error codes we see on occasion.
As always, when working on cooking appliances, error codes can be erroneous. And they can also be the result of loose or corroded connections, especially on older units. Keep that in mind when you’re troubleshooting. Dirt and corrosion always come into play when trying to locate the source of a problem.
Before We Begin
There is one thing to say before starting. If you see an F1 error code regardless of the E designation, try cycling power first. The F1 is, in almost every case, a memory problem inside the control, and the only fix is a new control. That said, I’ll skip over the F1 codes and move on to the others.
How to Enter Diagnostics Mode
Enter Diagnostics Mode by pressing CANCEL>CANCEL>START or OFF>OFF>ON within 5 seconds.
Press the TEMP/TIME "+” or “More" or “Less" keypads or the number 3 or 6 keypads, depending on the model, to read the fault codes. From here you do other tests, but for today’s post, we’ll focus on the codes. You can go deeper into diagnostics by referring to the tech sheet included with your unit.
General Procedure: Diagnostic Test/Fault Codes
Step 1: Plug in the range or connect the power.
Step 2: Enter the Diagnostic Mode.
Step 3: Press the Start or On keypad to verify the fault codes.
Step 4: The display sequence below provides information on how to read the fault codes:
Step 5: All the LEDs will flash on for 1 second and off for 1 second.
Step 6: The number of times the LEDs flash on and off is displayed. For example, if the number 5 is displayed, the LEDs have flashed on and off 5 times.
Step 7: A code will be displayed followed 2 seconds later by a second code.
Step 8: The first code displayed indicates the F-number; the second code displayed represents the E number.
Step 9: A 5-second pause follows the E number of separate fault codes.
Step 10: The fault code sequence will remain on the display until the Start or On keypad is pressed.
Step 11: Lastly, press the Start or On keypad to display the next fault code.
Notes:
- Remember, entering Diagnostics Mode will cancel any active oven operation.
- You should enter the Diagnostic Mode only after the cooktop and oven have cooled.
- A maximum of 10 error codes are saved in memory.
Additionally, Service Mode automatically times out and goes to the time-of-day display after 5 minutes.
Whirlpool WGE745C0FS Display/Error Codes
F2E0 Keypad Disconnected
Problem: The main control no longer sees the keypad.
This might be a simple disconnected keypad cable. Check the obvious places for that to happen. Common places are at the boards they connect to, or if there’s a crease in the cable. If everything checks OK, and you’re sure the cable is fine, replace the keypad first, then the main control.
F2E1 Stuck Keypad
Problem: The keypad is stuck
The obvious cause is a key pressed for too long, but the more common cause is a faulty keypad. Try cycling power. If that doesn’t work, replace the keypad.
F3E0 Main Sensor
Problem: Main Sensor Open or Shorted (Upper)
The main control has detected an upper cavity temperature reading >995°F (535°C) or <0°F (-18°C).
RECOMMENDED CORRECTIVE ACTION PROCEDURE
Step 1: Unplug the range or disconnect power.
Step 2: Inspect the main control connector P10 for a backed-out terminal or loose connection. If one is found, reconnect or replace the harness and go to Step 10. If not, go to Step 3.
Step 3: Measure resistance across the main control connector P10-3 and P10-4. At room temperature, the thermal sensor should read between 1000ft and 1200ft. Reconnect P10. If resistance is measured in range, go to Step 4. If resistance is measured out of range, go to Step 9.
Step 4: Replace all parts and panels before operating.
Step 5: Plug-in range or reconnect power
Step 6: Enter a cook function (i.e., Bake). If the error code doesn't reappear after 20 seconds, go to Step 12. If the error code reappears, go to Step 7.
Step 7: Unplug the range or disconnect power.
Step 8: Replace the main control and go to Step 10.
Step 9: Inspect connection at upper cavity thermal sensor. Disconnect and measure the resistance across the thermal sensor. At room temperature, the thermal sensor should read between 1000ft and 1200ft. If resistance is measured out of range, replace the thermal sensor. If resistance is measured in range, replace the harness.
Step 10: Replace all parts and panels before operating.
Step 11: Plug-in range or reconnect power
Step 12: First, Enter a cook function (i.e., Bake) and verify the error code doesn't reappear after 20 seconds. Verify operation is normal. Then, enter the diagnostic mode to view the “Faults” screen. Lastly, press START TIME or DELAY START to clear each Fault code(s).
F3E1: Main Sensor Open or Shorted (Lower)
Problem: The main control has detected a lower cavity temperature reading >995°F (535°C) or <0°F (-18°C).
RECOMMENDED CORRECTIVE ACTION PROCEDURE
Step 1: Unplug the range or disconnect power.
Step 2: Inspect main control connector P10 for a backed-out terminal or loose connection. If one is found, reconnect or replace the harness and go to Step 10. If not, go to Step 3.
Step 3: Measure resistance across main control connector P10-1 and P10-2. At room temperature, the thermal sensor should read between 1000ft and 1200ft. Reconnect P10. If resistance measures in range, go to Step 4. If resistance measures out of range, go to Step 9.
Step 4: Replace all parts and panels before operating.
Step 5: Plug-in range or reconnect power
Step 6: Enter a cook function (i.e., Bake). If the error code doesn't reappear after 20 seconds, go to Step 12. If the error code reappears, go to Step 7.
Step 7: Unplug the range or disconnect power.
Step 8: Replace the main control and go to Step 10.
Step 9: Inspect connection at lower cavity thermal sensor. Disconnect and measure the resistance across the thermal sensor. At room temperature, the thermal sensor should read between 1000ft and 1200ft. If resistance measures out of range, replace the thermal sensor. If resistance measures in range, replace the harness.
Step 10: Replace all parts and panels before operating.
Step 11: Plug-in range or reconnect power
Step 12: First, enter a cook function (i.e., Bake) and verify the error code doesn't reappear after 20 seconds. Verify operation is normal. Then, enter the diagnostic mode to view the “Faults" screen. Finally, press START TIME or DELAY START to clear each Fault code(s).
F5E1: Latch Operation
Problem: Latch is not operating
The door latch will neither lock nor unlock. The latch motor will run for 3 complete revolutions in an attempt to lock/unlock and will then be stopped in the calculated unlocked position. After this process is completed, the fault will be logged.
Additionally, if you’re willing and a good troubleshooter, you can dig into more serious issues with your WGE745C0FS. This could be looking at issues such as over temp cook or over temp clean by using your tech sheet.
Neli is Here to Help
Finally, we’ve reached the end of another exciting journey into the world of DIY appliance repair. Still, feel confused? Or just want to make life a little easier? Reach out to Neli and set up an appointment. We can walk you through troubleshooting and diagnosing. Hope you enjoyed the fun as much as we like writing for you!
DIY Appliance Repair | WED8127L Series Whirlpool Dryer | Error Codes
This is another edition of the Neli DIY Appliance Repair Series for your continued enjoyment. I’m going to tackle the Whirlpool WED8127L Series dryer today. Today’s dryers are simple, which makes them durable. I think the main reason some people don’t enjoy working on them is that they’re not easy to access – unless you have the know-how. I’ll show you how soon.
WED8127L Error Codes
To make things easy below is a picture showing you how to enter diagnostics.
With the new touch screen UIs, sometimes they won’t register your button touches. Keep trying because it will work. Try moistening your fingertips and try again. When you’re checking for error codes, remember they’re always in the format F# E#. F indicates the category of the error, and E indicates the component causing the error code.
F1E1 – Main Control Fault
The main control (ACU) is not detecting input line voltage or at the heater relay. You can check the board for proper connections, but first, confirm that you have the correct incoming voltage to the dryer. I can’t tell you how often that happens. Maybe L1 or L2 are missing at the wall plug, or there could be a burned wire on the dryer side terminal block.
F2E1 – HMI (human-machine interface or UI)
You will only see this error when you’re already in diagnostics. That’s because the buttons are touch and won’t behave like mechanical ones. This is an error within the UI and there isn’t any way to repair this except to replace the UI itself. If you’re lucky, you can reseat the connecting cable from the UI to the ACU.
F2E2 – Internal UI error
You’ll see this error if the UI has failed completely.
F3E1 – Open or shorted exhaust thermistor
Check the thermistor for over 50 KΩ for an open thermistor, and less than 500Ω for a shorted one. But the same could happen if the J14 connector is unplugged from the ACU.
F3E2 – Open or shorted moisture sensor
Check the moisture strip just inside the drum area. They’re two thin metal strips side-by-side.
F3E3 – Open or shorted inlet thermistor
Check the thermistor with your meter set to resistance. If it checks over 245KΩ, it’s open, and if it measures less than 328Ω, it’s shorted. I’ve always found them to read less than a hundred ohms when they’re shorted.
F3E5 – Open or shorted rear moisture sensor
This error covers the moisture sensor strips on the rear bulkhead inside the dryer. But you won’t see them in every model.
F6E1 – Communication error between the UI and ACU
This one is tricky because if the cable between them checks ok, you’ll have to use the Tech Sheet that came with your dryer to test each component. It’s been my experience that the UI or HMI is at fault more often.
I said earlier that many people don’t care about working on these new dryers. But they’re not bad if you are in the know-how. Below are a few pictures that show how to remove the console. TIP: use ONLY a thin but stiff plastic putty knife! Anything else will scratch the surface. Once the knife is in the right place, it will feel springy because you’ll be pressing on the spring clips. Push from front to back while holding the console.
Once the console is off the machine, you can access the ACU for making checks. Follow the diagram carefully to avoid scratching the paint. Hopefully, you won’t have to do this too often.
Testing the Main Control (ACU)
The ACU has a green LED near the center of the board that lights up and flashes when the dryer is turned on, then glows steadily after bootup. Another quick test of the HMI (UI) is to unplug the dryer, then reapply power, press power, and allow the UI to wake up the system. If the UI won’t wake up the dryer, check for the lighted green LED on the control. If it’s off after a minute or two, the ACU is defective. If the LED works normally, but you can’t power the dryer from the UI, suspect the UI.
Neli is Here to Help
This concludes today’s talk about the WED8172L series dryer. As always, if you run into trouble, you can set up an appointment and one of us will be glad to help! Don’t forget to check out our other articles about DIY appliance repair!
DIY Appliance Repair Series | Maytag MER8800FZ Electric Range | Error Codes
In this edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series, we’ll be looking at the Maytag MER8800FZ electric range series and the common error codes you may see. The MER8800FZ is a true convection unit that sets itself apart from other less equipped ranges.
True convection uses a third element placed inside the convection assembly that helps circulate hot air for cooking around and onto the food and provides an even distribution of heat.
Speaking of convection, aside from a rare element failure, the only other issue I’ve seen is the fan blades warp and rub on the metal surrounding the element. It’s very loud and you can’t mistake the noise. The only good fix is a new convection assembly. Now for the MER8800FZ error codes…
Let's Get Started
Before we begin looking at the Maytag MER8800FZ, remember the normal key sequence of CANCEL>CANCEL>START to enter the Service Mode.
NOTE:
On models with a numeric keypad on the control, press the “3” key instead of the “up” arrow or “+” (plus) keypad. Press the “6” key instead of the “down” arrow or “-” (minus) keypad. On some models, press the OFF keypad if there is not a CANCEL keypad.
This sequence displays the most recent error code first. To see the last 10 codes, each display has different steps to see them, so follow the instructions for your control.
To clear the codes, press START TIME or DELAY START. Always check your tech sheet included with your range for more information.
MER8800FZ Failure/Error Display Codes
F1E0 - EEPROM communication error.
This code usually tells you the control has failed internally and needs replacing. As with any error code, you can try to cycle power and see if the error code shows up again. If it repeats, the control is beyond repair.
F1E5 - Oven temperature sensor out of range.
Check the sensor with a meter set to resistance. If it reads between 1K and 1.2KΩ, it’s checking OK. If it truly is out of range, replace the sensor and clear the error code from the control, then test the oven temperature to confirm the operation.
F2E0 - Keypad disconnected.
Replace the keypad membrane.
F2E1 - Stuck key.
Replace the keypad membrane.
F3E0 - The main sensor is open or shorted.
This error tells you that the oven temp sensor has failed either open or shorted. As with the F1E5 error, check the sensor pins at the connector for 1K to 1.2KΩ. Replace the sensor if the reading is way off. Usually a short or infinite resistance (open).
F3E2 - Warming drawer sensor open or shorted.
If the sensor temperature is reading room temperature, replace the sensor because it may have failed at a high temperature. Unless you already replaced the oven temperature sensor, this error likely won’t show up (it’s rare). Additionally, be sure you can re-measure the oven temperature sensor to confirm it’s in range.
F5E0 - Door and switches (clean mode on some models) don’t agree.
Enter diagnostics to confirm the error (CANCEL, CANCEL, START). Cancel diagnostics and enter diagnostics a second time. With TEST ON displayed, open the oven door and engage the door switch by hand. The display should change from UI to UO.
Assuming the state of the switch changes on the display, check the door alignment and if it actuates the door switch fully. Adjust as necessary. If the display does not change, check the actuating rod from the front frame to the door switch, and the harness, etc. If everything checks OK, put the oven into self-clean and confirm the door lock functions and the unit enters self-clean. After confirming proper operation and there are no errors, be sure to clear the error codes from memory. Enter diagnostics and press START TIME or DELAY START to clear the codes.
F6E1 - Over temp in cook
F6E2 - Over temp in self-clean
F6E3 - Over temp in the warming drawer
Confirm these codes in diagnostics (CANCEL, CANCEL, START).
REPLACE CONTROL IF ANY OF THESE OCCUR
The three error codes above show a thermal runaway situation, and you should remove power from the unit and replace the control. The control lost its ability to respond to input from the temperature sensors and will allow temperatures to increase to dangerously high levels.
Neli is Here to Help
This completes another venture into the world of DIY appliance repair. Hopefully, you now look at your Maytag MER8800FZ with a new confidence. As always, we hope our posts help you untangle some of the confusion that results from unfamiliar terms, etc. Our goal is to help you complete your repair and have a working appliance again. But if you feel like you’re in over your head, please, let us help. That’s why we’re here. Feel free to set up an appointment with us and we'll walk you through the repair process.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | WDT750SAKV Whirlpool 3rd Rack Dishwasher | Error Codes
It’s time again for another venture into the world of DIY appliance repair. Today, I’ll be talking about Whirlpool’s 3rd rack dishwasher model WDT750SAKV that does surprisingly well considering limited space.
You already know it’s a rock-solid unit that does its job and can pack a lot of dishes into it, but not that many. Just use common sense when loading by remembering if you block water flow, your dishes won’t get clean.
I’m going to start out with the most common error codes of the WDT750SAKV I’ve seen, with their real-world explanations. I’ll then get into a few of the more unusual codes and their fixes.
WDT750SAKV Error Codes Group 1:
The error codes in this section are the most common you’re likely to see with your WDT750SAKV.
F2E1
Of these, the F2E1 stuck key error is by far the most common one. Something to keep in mind with this error, if you repeatedly press keys in rapid succession, this error may show up. The error codes in this section are the most common you’re likely to see. Of these, the F2E1 stuck key error is by far the most common one. Something to keep in mind with this error, if you repeatedly press keys in rapid succession, this error may show up.
F4E2 and F4E3
The next common error is the F4E2 or F4E3, both of which show a heater error. In the strip circuit, you can see that it’s either an open or shorted element. If you find the heater checks OK, suspect the heater relay on the main control. Sometimes, you will have erroneous heater errors when it’s the main control causing the code, especially if you see the F1E1 error which shows the main control failed.
WDT750SAKV Error Codes Group 2:
F5E1
The door switch stuck open. You won’t often see this one because if the machine won’t start and the door is open, the control is paused. But if you do see it, check the door switches inside the latch. TIP: Don’t do this with power applied to the machine. It’s a quick way to get poked or worse, blow the control.
F6E1
I have seen the F6E1 for a user interface failure. It’s usually caused by a communication error between it and the ACU. Check this carefully because you don’t want to replace the interface when the control is the problem. You can access the tech sheet placed inside the machine or inside the interface housing. Or, another choice is to make an appointment and we’ll walk you through troubleshooting this issue.
F8E1
Although the F8E1 code for no water exists, I’ve never seen the code when the machine isn’t receiving water, and I have seen my share. So, don’t assume the machine is failing because it’s not showing this code when it’s not receiving water. It could be the water inlet valve turns on but the solenoid is stuck, blocking water flow, or some other reason the control can’t detect. If you have no water, check the incoming water first, and then the voltage at the valve.
WDT750SAKV Error Codes Group 3:
The codes in this group tell the whole story. Especially having to do with water and the inlet valve. You will know if your inlet valve is stuck open if there’s no power to the machine and the water still pours into the dishwasher. If your drain pump starts up when the water level is too high, you know the float switch is working. When you’re troubleshooting, always use your senses of hearing, smell, and sight. They help you more than you realize. When dealing with water issues, stay alert because you could have a flood on your hands if you’re not paying attention.
WDT750SAKV Error Codes Group 4:
F10E2
If you have a drying problem with no obvious causes, you might still have a failed vent wax motor blocking the hot air from venting out of the machine. The code is F10E2, but I wouldn’t wait until you see it. Be proactive and check the motor for an open. One of the symptoms you may see is a puddle of water on the floor after every wash. It’s usually on the left side in line with the vent on the door. One minute there’s nothing there, then suddenly water avalanches out onto the floor. Water pools up inside the vent in the door until it overflows and leaks onto the floor.
F10E4
The next one came about during the time when Whirlpool dishwashers started having a leak at the diverter in the center of the sump assembly. When that happened, the only fix was a new sump. Fortunately, you won’t see the leaks hardly ever today, but they fail when they can’t find a home position, and you get an F10E4 error code.
F10E5
Another diverter error is F10E5 which means a diverter leak is detected. Whenever you see this, check the diverter gasket for damage. Diverter leaks occur in the center of the sump and leak small amounts of water onto the floor, completely out of sight. Then one day you realize your floor is warped from the constant dripping from the diverter.
Neli Is Here To Help
This concludes another edition in the continuing saga of DIY appliance repair. Hopefully, you have newfound confidence with the error codes of Whirlpool's 3rd rack dishwasher model WDT750SAKV. All of us at Neli sincerely hope you get as much pleasure out of our posts as we do writing them. We base each one on real-life experience and knowledge of various appliance repair issues you won’t find anywhere else. As always, if you need us to lend a hand, make an appointment and we’ll be there for you.