DIY Appliance Repair Series | WFC8090GX All In One | Error Codes
There was a time when the All-In-One machines from any manufacturer were horrible. Some still are. But this new Whirlpool actually works. I think they learned from the others about how NOT to make this machine.
We’re just beginning another adventure into the wonderful world of DIY appliance repair, and today we’re talking about the new (circa 2018) WFC8090GX Series All In One, washer and dryer. The operation is unique, and I won’t go into that because you can get the whole service manual from Whirlpool if needed.
These are handy machines, and as I said, they do work – consistently. That’s important with this type of machine because so often the older styles had problems with moisture (duh) and clogged ducts. So. if you’re ready, let’s dive into the common problems and associated troubleshooting steps.
WFC8090GX Error Codes and Troubleshooting
F0E2 – Suds error – This is one that keeps coming up on all machines because we still insist on using non-HE soap or too much regular HE soap and end up paying the price. If the error shows up, it’s already too late for the machine to try and correct the problem. By the way, if your HE soap easily produces suds, check the brand and change to a better one. HE soap shouldn’t ever produce many suds if any.
Try an empty rinse and spin to get rid of the extra soap, double-check the drain cycle. If it looks like soap was never the issue, you may have a clogged drain or a broken impeller on the pump. You can also check the pressure switch hose for small pinholes, too.
F0E3 – High temp error – First, power cycle the machine to clear any erroneous signals, then check the TCO or thermal cutoff in the dry heating element circuit. Sometimes the dry fan motor quits or slows down.
F0E4 – High temp error in the wash cycle – This one is common. Make sure the cold water line connects to the machine. This unit has only one water inlet valve, and it’s meant only for cold water. The machine heats the water when needed.
F0E5 – Off-balance load – Just like with all other recent Whirlpool washers, the control picks up the extra current draw from either an unbalanced load that causes the spikes in current or a load that’s too heavy. Be thankful this error exists because it has stopped many machines from destroying themselves because of extra weight or a severely unbalanced load.
F1E2 - MCU voltage error. The Motor Control Unit sensed an under or overvoltage condition. Check the motor circuit.
F1E4 – Failed Main Relay on the ACU - This isn’t all that common, but I thought it would be good to know in case it comes up. A failed main relay usually means the ACU needs replacing. There are no parts available to replace the relay.
F6E1 – Communication error between the ACU and MCU (appliance control unit and motor control unit) – If a reboot doesn’t correct the problem, the likely cause is the HMI (user interface). Check for continuity in the cable between connector J17 on the ACU to connector J3 on the MCU.
F6E2 – Communication error between the ACU and MCU. This is identical to the F6E1 error except this time check the cable between ACU – J16 and HMI – CN1. If the cable checks well for either error code, the HMI is still the likely cause.
F7E2 – MCU over temp error probably caused by an overly heavy load or a garment stuck between the basket and tub. Free-wheel the tub by hand to check for resistance. Also, check the harness between the ACU and the motor. I’ve seen many harnesses fail with no warning. If you find a break in the harness, save yourself the grief of trying to repair the break. It rarely works for long. Replace it and be done.
F7E3 – MCU overcurrent or internal failure. This isn’t common, but if you have no movement even without the alarm, blame the MCU. They’re a high-heat component and fail the soonest.
F9E1 – Long drain. You probably won’t see this error unless the pump stops moving completely due to a burned-out motor. Other times when you can hear the pump, it’s likely clogged, or the impeller is missing (broken off the motor shaft) or it’s worn down and can’t push water.
If it gets to this point, I wouldn’t bother cleaning it and expect it to work fine. After a few years of regular use, you will likely find the armature sitting in water due to a bad shaft seal. That bogs down the motor and it loses most of its torque.
Neli is Here to Help
This concludes another exciting venture into DIY appliance repair. We hope you guys find this information on the Whirlpool Series WFC8090GX useful. I know I would have back when I was starting out (yes, it was a very long time ago). But any time you feel like you’re in too deep, don’t forget to set up an appointment and we can walk you through just about any appliance issue out there. Thanks for reading!
DIY Appliance Repair Series | WED6120HW Whirlpool Series Smart Capable Dryer Error Codes
Welcome to another edition in Neli's DIY Appliance Repair Series. Today's post is about the model WED6120HW series dryer. You know this is Smart capable, but I won't be talking about that today. If you're having issues, it's best to set up an appointment with a Neli virtual tech to help.
This model of dryer resembles many earlier models. The control sits on top, under the console. The heater is parallel to the floor unlike other models with the lint screen accessible from the top and the heater mounted vertically in the back.
That makes the location of the parts a little different, but they function the same as before. Let's start with one specific error that I've seen a few times, but I don't know if it's caused by connector error or vibration. It's the F2E2 "Contact Service" error code that shows on the display. It's happened enough that Whirlpool created a service pointer to address the problem. Below, I've included a few pics from the pointer.
Look at the top pic and check your serial number. Not all machines have this problem, but it doesn't hurt to check to see if yours is on the list. The list in the upper left corner of the top pic. The same error code applies to the matching washer, too.
Sometimes the ribbon cable comes loose and causes the error. Remember to remove power from the dryer first! If the connector seems fine, your only choice is a new control. There's no programming involved, so it's just plug and play to get back running error-free.
Error Codes Explained
F1E1 - This code follows Whirlpool's standard nomenclature. The F1E1 code tells us the control can't see voltage on the board, and it's usually correct. But to be sure, check the incoming voltage for 220 VAC for an electric version and 110 VAC for gas. If that checks OK, replace the control.
F2E1 - This is a stuck keypad button. Because you can't get into diagnostics to see the error, take their word for it. Replace the console.
F2E2 - Contact Service error. See the beginning of this post.
F3E1 - If the exhaust thermistor resistance measurement is over 50KΩ or less than 500Ω, replace the thermistor.
F3E2 - If the moisture sensor strips are bent, missing, or disconnected, try reconnecting them after cleaning. If they're not working, replace the sensor harness part number WPW10298258. Use rubbing alcohol to clean the strips and make sure they're not bent, and they lay flush.
F3E3 - If the inlet thermistor resistance measurement is over 245KΩ or less than 328Ω, replace the thermistor.
F3E5 - On units with rear moisture sensors, use the same procedure as F3E2.
F6E1 - This communication error is many times corrected by cycling power. If that doesn't work, then check for a likely faulty connection between the control (ACU) and the user interface (HMI).
Consumer Notifications
If you have a power failure, you'll see PF on the display. Just press the power button to clear and to restart the cycle.
This dryer will tell you when it detects a blocked vent or restricted airflow. But I wouldn't rely on that too much because if your dryer needs cleaning, the thermistors will act up and trigger the message even when there are no restrictions in the vent. Always keep your vent clear for the best results.
If you notice longer dry times, it's likely there's an airflow restriction somewhere in your vent. A quick paper test will tell you. Open the door, remove the lint screen, and set it aside. Take a piece of 8.5 x 11-inch paper and place it in front of the lint screen area while you run the empty dryer with the door open. The paper should "stick" to the lint screen area. If it doesn't, you have blocked or restricted airflow.
If you're not comfortable with this test, that's OK. You can also check for a crushed vent at the back of your dryer and a clogged screen at the end of the vent where it exits to the outdoors. These are common places for lint to accumulate and will cause long dry times.
I hope this post was informative and helpful. But if you have any trouble with your dryer, regardless of the problem, please remember to reach out to Neli and make an appointment. We can help you troubleshoot the issue and resolve it quickly.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | Whirlpool WEE510S0F Series Electric Front Control Range | Error Codes
Welcome to the latest edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. Today, I’ll to delve into the error codes for the Whirlpool WEE510S0F series electric front control range. This range has been around a few years, so it’s likely you’ve seen the most common error with this unit. The F5E0 and F5E1 error codes tell you either the oven door latch or the switches have a problem.
The error only comes up during a self-clean which I think should happen before you activate self-clean. That’s because if it starts and the door remains locked after the error, there’s no way to release the latch.
You can be persistent and try to activate/deactivate self-clean several times with the hope of the latch moving far enough to unlock the door. If that won’t work regardless of how many times you try, you can access the motor and switches from the back after removing the back panel.
You’ll find linkage (see picture, items 32, 33, 34) there you can disconnect and then pull the rod to unlock the door. Inspect the mechanism for damage or bad switches. Check the switches with a meter set to reading resistance. If one or both don’t check OK, save yourself a headache and replace the switches. They’re not repairable, at least not very often.
When you have the new switches installed, double-check the position of the linkage and the motor. If it’s not correct, disconnect the rod and apply power to the unit. The motor should return to home position (door unlocked). If the motor stopped on the switches, then put everything back. Next, start a self-clean and wait until the door locks. Before the cleaning begins, cancel the self-clean and confirm that the door unlocks.
Accessing Error Codes
To confirm an error code, press CANCEL, CANCEL, START. If there are no codes, “CLr” shows on the display after pressing the “UP” key 5 times, otherwise, the active error code will show on the display after pressing the “UP” key 6 times.
No Display
Confirm a “no display” problem caused by the control by checking incoming power at the terminal block. You should read 240 VAC across the outside terminals, and 120 VAC from center terminal to left, and center terminal to the right. If not, you need to check the incoming power, beginning at the breaker box.
Find the correct breaker and see if it’s tripped. If so, reset the breaker and check voltage again. A breaker that won’t reset or trips when you reset, suspect a problem inside the unit. We can help determine the source. Go to Neli Home and set a virtual appointment.
If the power is OK, and still, there’s no display, your only choice is a new control.
For most Whirlpool appliances, an F1Ex error code almost always guarantees a failed control.
F1E0 - F1E1 - F1E2 Error Codes
The F2E1 error code is a shorted keypad. This is usually accurate, and you will know because either the keypad failed completely, or it beeps whether you press a button.
F6E1 Error Code
This is a “thermal runaway” error code, and it’s usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor or the main control. Find the temp sensor on the back wall of the oven, either upper right or upper left. It looks like a metal pointed probe sticking out from the wall. Typically, it’s mounted with one or two screws accessible from inside the oven. Find the harness and connector on the back of unit after removing the back cover.
Check the resistance of sensor with your meter set to resistance. A normal reading is 1K – 1.2 kΩ (kilohms). With the readings normal and the error still occurring, replace the control. If the readings don’t come close, don’t take a chance. Replace the sensor regardless. I’ve had a few issues over the years with a good sensor, only to find the bake relay shorted on the control.
F9E0 Error Code
This is an unusual error code, but if it happens, be sure to check incoming power following the steps mentioned earlier under the heading “No Display”. When you’ve confirmed the wiring, take a look at the pigtail from the range. Is it burned anywhere in or around the plug? If so, call an electrician unless you’re qualified for this repair.
This concludes this edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair for the Whirlpool Series WEE510S0F range. We hope you find the information helpful and remember to review the Tech Sheet supplied with your unit. It’s on the back panel or inside the bottom drawer cavity. It has detailed information that I couldn’t include here for brevity.
As I said earlier, Neli is here for you any time. Just go online to Neli Home and set up an appt. We’ll assist you in troubleshooting whatever appliance issue you’re experiencing. Thanks for reading.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | WDTA80SAKZ0 Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes
Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. We’re looking at the series WDTA80SAKZ Whirlpool dishwasher.
Right from the start I can tell you this is a nice machine. From a technician’s point of view, WP continues to make their machines easier to work on, and they don’t put common parts in ridiculously hard to reach places.
The one thing that stands out from everything is how they now incorporate the drain pump with the sump assembly. That makes for quick and easy replacements when necessary. You can still replace the wash motor, but unless you can make a good hose connection to the wash motor without sacrificing needed space elsewhere, I wouldn’t recommend doing that.
Why not just replace the sump assembly?
Below, I’ve listed the most common error codes and how to access them.
ERROR CODE TABLES
The F3E1 thermistor error isn’t common, but it will stop the machine. Be wary if replacing the thermistor doesn’t fix it. If it doesn’t, you might be looking at a new control.
F4E2 heater: Try resetting the control first, before condemning the heater. Just go through accessing diagnostics, then exit out. That should reset everything.
F4E3 heater: I’ve seen this one more often, and it’s usually correct. But don’t trust everything. Check the heater with your meter to be sure.
F6E1 user interface error: In my experience, this is the most common problem with these machines. It’s not rampant because the machines don’t fail often. But when they do, many times the UI is the reason.
F8E1 water inlet error: This one should be obvious but check the water supply to the dishwasher first. If that’s OK, check the screen of the water line next, then check voltage at the water inlet valve. If there’s no power, you may have a harness or control problem.
F8E2 inlet valve error: This one calls for an electrical problem at the input to the valve.
F8E4 overfill error: Sometimes the float switch will check open. When in doubt, replace it. Microswitches can fail even they check good.
F8E5 overfill error: Be concerned about this because when you see it, a flood may already be occurring. When the water trips the float, the drain should turn on, but open the door slowly. Make sure the water is off and the water drained out of the machine. Then check the valve with the door open and closed. It should remain off. If it doesn’t, the valve is receiving power all the time. That’s a control problem. If the valve doesn’t have power but it’s stuck open, replace the water inlet valve.
F8E2 inlet valve error: This one calls for an electrical problem at the input to the valve.
F8E4 overfill error: Sometimes the float switch will check open. When in doubt, replace it. Microswitches can fail even they check good.
F8E5 overfill error: Be concerned about this because when you see it, a flood may already be occurring. When the water trips the float, the drain should turn on, but open the door slowly. Make sure the water is off and the water drained out of the machine. Then check the valve with the door open and closed. It should remain off. If it doesn’t, the valve is receiving power all the time. That’s a control problem. If the valve doesn’t have power but it’s stuck open, replace the water inlet valve.
F10E2 vent wax motor error: If your dishes are always wet regardless if you use JetDry, check the vent wax motor. It might be open, causing the vent to stay closed, preventing the hot air from escaping. But also check other things like the heater itself, and if you selected heated dry.
F10E3 drying fan error: This isn’t common, but it’s something to check while you’re looking at the vent wax motor.
F10E4 diverter error: If you hear a constant whine and then see the error (or not), the diverter motor can’t find home position. The diverter guides water to different parts of the dishwasher based on the cycle used.
F10E5 diverter error: If you see this error, immediately check underneath the machine, near the center. Look for water dripping. If you see it, it’s because the diverter gasket failed. Unless Whirlpool changed the design, the only fix is to replace the sump assembly. But it’s worth checking for a replacement gasket. It might be difficult to access. Removing the sump is the best option to locate and remove the gasket.
We hope you found this information helpful in troubleshooting your dishwasher. Whirlpool dishwashers are excellent machines, and rarely break down, but like every other appliance, they have their moments but luckily fewer than most. If you’re stuck on something, we are here to help you out. That’s what Neli is all about, helping you when repairing your appliances gets a little tough. Feel free to set up a diagnosis appointment and we can walk you through the problem.
DIY Appliance Repair | WDT710PAHZ1 Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes
Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. This post will talk about one in a series of Whirlpool’s Global Wash System dishwashers. Today’s model is the WDT710PAHZ1, and I’m going to list the most common error codes I’ve found over the years and some tips on how to fix them. I don’t take shortcuts unless they’re obvious, but I won’t drag things out, either. That said, let’s get started.
From my experience, the most common problem I had in the early stages was the wash motor locking up. I’ve talked about this problem before. Fortunately, WP took notice and by now they should work much better.
The symptom was either a total loss of the wash function or very little water sprayed onto dishes. When the latter happens, it’s a sure sign the wash motor is failing. In my opinion, the only good option at this point is to bite the bullet and replace the sump assembly.
You can replace only the motor, but it’s more of a hassle because WP uses a one-use clamp, as I call it, because it’s a metal strap crimped at the end. Trying to re-use it requires specially designed pliers to release, then reconnect the two ends. They work, but they don’t get the clamp tight enough to prevent leaks down the road.
Service Diagnostics with Error Codes Entry Sequence
Press any 3 keys in sequence 1,2,3,1,2,3,1,2,3 with no more than 1 second between key presses. NOTE: Some models have replaced the “CLEAN” LED with “COMPLETE.” If no error, the “Clean” LED stays on for 5 seconds, or the display shows “F-” or “E-”.
If your machine doesn’t have a display, you can decipher the error code by counting how many times the “CLEAN” LED blinks.
Error Code 71: No Heat
First up today is error code 7-1. It has the LED blink only once, pause, and blink 7 more times, and pause again to start over.
Code 71 is a heating circuit error. A quick way to determine if the heater works is to enter diagnostics and press START. This starts the self-test cycle. It’s an 8-minute cycle that steps through each routine in the cycle. Toward the end, when the drain pump starts running and stops, count fifteen seconds and drip water onto the heater.
If the water sizzles, you’ve just proven the heater circuit works. Remember what I said about shortcuts? This is one of them. It saves you from either removing the dishwasher or crawling underneath to check the heater with a meter.
From here, you can assume another reason caused the heater error, like a bad connection or something wrong with the harness. Maybe it’s an intermittent power problem. Check incoming power at the junction box under the machine for starters.
If the heater didn’t turn on during the self-test, now it’s time to check the heater resistance for continuity. If OK, still check incoming power because there might be a loose connection causing intermittent power drops under load.
If everything checks good and the heater still doesn’t work, you might have a control issue, such as a failed heater relay or blown load fuse. In either case, a new control is the only fix. Before condemning the control, take a close look at the main harness into the machine and look for burnt wires that shorted to ground (it happens).
Error Code 61: No Water to Unit
Another common error with all dishwashers is a water inlet problem. About half the time, the water inlet valve or the main control failed, and other times, the hot water shutoff valve (under the sink or elsewhere) failed.
A quick check of the machine inlet valve helps determine the source of the problem. With the water turned on (verify this), start any cycle aside from drain, and feel the body of the inlet valve for vibration or buzzing. That tells you the valve is getting power or not.
No indication of power here tells you to check the resistance of the inlet valve solenoid, which should be around 20 ohms. If the reading is very high in the megohms range, you might have an open winding in the solenoid coil, preventing the valve from turning on (vibrating).
If that’s the case, your only choice is a new valve. They’re not expensive, but don’t forget the pipe tape for the brass fitting. You may need to swap from the old one. But if the solenoid checks OK, now check for input from the main control after a cycle starts. It’s AC voltage in most models, and some require pinpoint meter leads to measure. Or you can disassemble the main control and get a set of prints to find out which connector to measure. Not having access is no problem. Just go to Neli and set up an appointment. We’ll walk you through the steps to troubleshoot.
DIY Appliance Repair Series | Whirlpool WOC54EC7H Series Wall Oven | Error Codes
Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. Today’s post is about the popular Whirlpool wall oven combo, series model WOC54EC7H. I’ll review the most common error codes and how to access them. Remember to follow directions and always troubleshoot any previously stored errors first, and reboot the oven. If no errors come up after a few minutes, clear the codes from memory or the oven may behave differently than you expect.
Before starting, note that this oven sometimes won’t heat after a cold reboot because the Appliance Manager (ACU) has to wait until the user interface control (HMI) finishes its boot sequence. It’s never been a problem as long as you wait about 15 minutes before using it. But it’s not a common issue, just something to keep in mind.
To make things easier to remember, the microwave Copernicus ACU (appliance manager) is on the left side of the microwave (combo unit only), and the main control is on top in the center, called the microwave ACU.
The oven ACU is also on the left side of the oven in combo units only. Otherwise, locate the ACUs on top of the upper oven cavity.
Here’s how to enter diagnostics to view the error codes and clear them. Refer to Option B to clear the error codes.
The F1E0 error code may show an erroneous code generated by another existing code, or a faulty ACU. Hard to say for sure, but check the stored codes first and work on those. Then, reboot the system and give it time to finish. Wait a few minutes, and if no errors occur, go back into diagnostics and clear any stored error codes, and reboot again. You’re good to go if no other error codes occur.
If the F1E0 reoccurs, you can be confident the user interface has failed.
It’s been my experience that anytime an F1E1 showed up, the Copernicus ACU (appliance manager) failed. To date, I’ve never had both the appliance manager and the HMI user interface fail together. But never say never!
Some of you may have already seen this one. The F4E1 is the error for the cavity thermistor. If you check the thermistor and it’s shorted, you can get away with replacing it and all should be good. If it checks OK (about 230k), you’ll have to replace the microwave appliance manager.
The door latch error, F5E1, is relatively rare on newer models. The latch motor fails more often on older units because of age and little use. You’ll have to remove the wall oven from its hole to access the motor assembly. Not fun, but doable. Just remember to have either an oven cart or a sturdy table ready to go, plus some help from some strong friends.
The F8E0-1-2-3 error is a cooling fan speed problem. The unit will not run with this error showing. Most of the time the hall sensor connected to the fan via a new style harness fails and throws the error code. Other times, the fan bearings gum up and try to stall the fan. Worst case would be the oven ACU causing the problem. The cooling fan sits in the back near the top of the oven. This is another time when you’ll have to remove the oven from its hole completely to access everything.
Microwave “Door” Alarm
If you see the word “DOOR” on the display, it’s telling you the microwave door switches don’t agree. That means either the primary or secondary switch failed. Remove the oven from its hole and remove the top covers to access the switches. Look for them on both sides of the oven, near the top. Don’t let a switch that just looks good fool you. Check it with a meter. The same goes for the monitor switch, too. It’s best to replace all three switches, but check each switch before replacing them. Doing so could save you the hassle of removing all the covers again.
This concludes the latest edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. We hope it helped you immensely! Remember to check the Tech Sheet included with your oven for everything talked about here in much more detail. If you run into any problems or you need some help, set up a diagnosis with Neli and we’ll walk you through everything!
DIY Appliance Series | WETLV27HW Stacked Washer and Dryer | Error Codes
Welcome to another edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series from Neli. Today's focus: The Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer
For the first time in a long time, Whirlpool actually has a quality stacked washer and dryer, the model WETLV27HV series. I’ve worked on every model over the years, and although all of the machines generally worked well, they all had problems.
Yes, every machine has its own set of problems, and that’s understandable. But to have persistent issues with noise, bad bearings, and having the tiresome taksk of going back and forth to the clients home with nagging problems.
I’m happy to say that the new Whirpool stacked washer and dryer finally broke through these problems. This washer/dryer duo is reliable and will continue to deliver good performance cycle after cycle.
I won’t lie to you and say it’s trouble-free. It’s a machine, and machines break. How much they break is what’s important. That said, I’ll review some features that will make your life easier when troubleshooting.
Control Pannel
This series doesn’t have a digital display, and that’s OK. Why? because you can troubleshoot using the LEDs on the control panel. Below is a screenshot of the user interface.
Below the washer dial are the status indicators. Different LEDs blink when there is an alarm, aside from telling you which part of the cycle is currently active.
Most Common Errors of the Whirlpool Stacked Washer and Dryer
By following the diagram below, you can get into the diagnostics of the machine. I’ve included the most common errors for this machine, but that’s not to say others won’t happen.
You can access the tech sheet from either behind the user interface or the front dryer access panel below the user interface.
Error Codes
If and when they happen, the error codes are usually accurate, so you can be confident that what you’re seeing is correct. There are times when the code gets you close, so you’ll have to troubleshoot further to find the exact cause.
F1E1 and F1E
In this group of codes, F1E1 and F1E2 are the most problematic. If you see either one, the control is gone and needs replacing. It’s possible to buy some time by cycling power, but don’t expect the machine to work for long.
If the control is totally gone, a reset won’t work.
F7 Codes
All the F7 codes have to do with a speed or position sensing error. For these, confirm the basket isn’t locked up. That causes F7E1 and sometimes F7E7. But consider other causes like a bad shifter or a garment stuck between the basket and tub
As the code explanation shows, other causes for a speed error include the run capacitor, an issue with the gearcase or pulley system, or an unbalanced load. Run an empty drain/spin to see what happens.
Do you hear a spark sound occurring when the motor should be starting?
- Check the run capacitor. If the body of the cap is distorted in any way, replace it. Also, if the cap looks OK, check it with the capacitance checker on your meter. It should measure 45-50 ohms.
- If the cap is open, the machine will shut down immediately after pressing start when the motor tries to start.
What about a growling sound?
- When the gearcase bearing gets too bad, it binds and makes a growling sound, which sometimes leads to the basket being unable to move freely.
- The pulley system includes the splutch assembly, which can bind and cause a loud grinding sound, once again causing the basket speed fault in bad cases.
Shift Actuator
- The shift actuator has two functions. One is the speed sensor and the other is the linkage attached to its motor. The linkage moves the splutch up and down to engage or disengage spin or agitation. Normally, you’ll get an error code when this happens, but not always.
Calibration
Remember to always perform a calibration after all the repairs are finished. If you don’t, you can’t expect the washer to run the way it should. Below is the procedure for calibration.
Once calibration starts, allow it to finish. It takes about 2 minutes or so. For more information, you can refer to the tech sheet included with every machine.
Neli is always here for you
I hope this information helps you troubleshoot your Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer, should the need arise. Like I said earlier, you may never need to work on the unit, but it’s always good to know where to find information if necessary.
Good luck, and if you need help with troubleshooting or the repair, be sure to set up an appointment at Neli. We can walk you through any problem and help with the repair, too.
DIY Appliance Repair | WTW8120HW and WTW6120HW Series Whirlpool Washer | Error Codes Related to the Drive System
Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series, designed to lend a hand to the growing number of do-it-yourselfers like yourself out there who hate the idea of having to pay someone for work you can do yourself.
The 8120 is the big brother to the 6120. The major difference between the two is the 8120 uses a magnetic clutch, while the 6120 uses the now-conventional splutch system, and has a .5 cu.ft. smaller wash capacity. The 8120 is at 5.3 cu.ft., and the 6120 is at 4.8 cu.ft.
Look at the two diagrams below and you can see the differences between the drive systems. The 6120 isn’t designed for the heavier loads like the 8120, but if you keep load sizes to a maximum of a half-full basket, you shouldn’t have many issues related to spin and washing performance.
For the 6120, item #6 is the cam/splutch assembly and engages/disengages spin and agitate. When the cam wears out, the teeth on the slider in the cam assembly wear down and can’t engage with the pulley, causing a loud squeal when it tries to engage. Usually, the cycle stops cold and flashes the lid lock light and you’ll have a basket speed fault.
On the 8120, item #9 is the magnetic slider (a.k.a. shifter) and when it wears out, it sticks and won’t engage magnetically but won’t cause the same sounds. Instead, the cycle stops and the error code(s) F7E3 or F7E4 will appear. A bad clutch also throws the same code most of the time.
If you replace the slider, pay attention to the new style clip on the gear case shaft holding the slider in place. It’s made from spring steel and will bend out of shape if you force it on or off. While you’re removing the clutch or the stator, remember the 7mm machine screws can’t handle much torque and strip easily, so don’t over-tighten them. For this, snug is fine.
If you see oil dripping from the 6120 gear case, it’s over. Replace it and the cam assembly, too, including the belt. After installation, remember to load calibrate the control. Don’t try to run the machine if calibration won’t take or if you don’t know how. Refer to the tech sheet located on the top deck of the washer. It shows you the steps for calibration and how to enter diagnostics.
Another error code, the F0E5 is an out-of-balance problem with a few causes other than suspension rods. In fact, suspension rods are at the bottom of the list as far as this error code is concerned. They wear out, but not as much as the wash plate (impeller). More often than weak suspension, the inner collar of the wash plate strips and causes the load to bunch up in the center of the basket. That can cause an unbalanced load that cannot correct itself.
When the inner collar strips, the wash plate hardly moves because it’s disengaged from the gear case shaft, and the clothes can’t move normally. The result could be an F0E5, and for sure, poor wash performance.
In the 6120, if you have a problem with no rotation or motor won’t start, take a close look at item #10 in the 6120 diagram. It points to the motor run capacitor. When they’re bad, you’ll first hear a brief sound that resembles a sparking sound the first time the motor should start, and the machine normally shuts down after. Do a visual check of the capacitor, mounted to the gear case close to the drain pump. If the body of the cap looks distorted or bent, it’s likely the cap shorted.
The best check is using the capacitance mode on your meter and look for 50 microfarads. If it’s within one or two microfarads, you should be fine. Anything less, replace the cap and calibrate the control. Keep in mind that this applies only to the 6120. If the cap looks distorted and still checks ok, replace it because it’s going to fail soon.
I hope you found the information here useful. Feel free to leave a comment. We love to hear from our readers! As always, if you need us, set up an appointment here.
WML75011HV | Whirlpool Low-Profile Microwave | Error Codes
Welcome to another edition of Neli’s DIY Appliance Repair Series. Today we’re taking a look at Whirlpool’s new low-profile microwave series. They’re over-the-range (OTR) microwaves and have some nice changes.
The door opens with a button and solenoid instead of a push-button linkage setup. That’s good because sometimes the linkage would break on manual designs, and you couldn’t shut the door because it would jam. The new style lets you open the door manually with no problems.
Its 1,000-watt, 1.1 cu. ft. capacity in a low-profile design is smart. Sensor cooking prevents overcooking, too. It has all the standard options found on other microwaves, making this a good fit in a small space.
This next feature isn’t a big deal, but for some customers it’s a deal breaker. Making popcorn has always been an issue because too many kernels didn’t pop. They finally updated the technology and now you can set the number on the display and rarely will it leave even one kernel unpopped. Good to know, right?
Only a Few Repairs
These units have been around for a few years and nothing stands out as a repetitive problem, such as the door switches constantly failing. Whirlpool updated the design of the interlock by adding a fourth microswitch which rerouted the current load, making the switches more reliable.
I had a turntable motor call just once. It wasn’t the motor, but the gear cracked in two pieces. Simple fix and all was good. Like I said, only a few repairs. But that doesn’t mean they won’t fail at some point. Here are the WML75011HV error codes you may see:
As is common with most appliances, anytime you have an error, try to power cycle the unit and try again. If the error code repeats, it’s probably a legitimate error that needs more troubleshooting.
F2E1 - Touch pad failure
Try running your fingers over the buttons once or twice while pressing hard. Sometimes the earth rubber or mylar gets wrinkled or bunched up and loses contact temporarily. It may work, but if not, try reseating the connections. If that fails, you don’t have any other choice but to replace the touch panel.
F1E4 – MW Relay
This is the relay that supplies 110 vac to the high voltage side. If the contacts get stuck closed, you check the resistance of the contacts. If they’re shorted, it’s likely a bad main control (ACU).
Some Causes of No Heat in a Microwave
One of the most common problems with microwaves is no heat. There are plenty of causes for this, and I’ll explain a few of them here.
Before troubleshooting a microwave, you need to understand how it generates the “heat”. The concept isn’t difficult to understand. The main control sends line voltage to the input of the primary coil of the high-voltage transformer from the MW relay contacts on the ACU board.
The line voltage (110vac) is stepped-up to 2,000 volts. A voltage-doubler circuit made up of the high-voltage diode and high-voltage capacitor sends 4,000 volts to the input of the magnetron. The voltage energizes the magnetron and begins to output microwaves used for heating.
If any single element in the circuits were to fail, the microwave no longer heats. In my experience, it’s always best to replace the mag, cap, and diode, even if they check good with a meter. If you understand electronics and the potential problems with loads creating opens in a circuit, then you understand why it’s best to replace all three components.
If you decide to repair your microwave because of a no-heat condition, please don’t take any chances without first contacting Neli to set up an appointment so we can walk you through the safety procedures. Microwaves work with dangerous high-voltages present unless you know how to discharge them and make it safe to repair.
Failed Door Switches
A second cause of no heat in a microwave stems from bad door switches. Some units have three, and some have four microswitches used to confirm a closed door before allowing operation.
The monitor switch detects the position of the door. If this switch fails, a likely result is a blown line fuse in the input power circuit. The other switches work together to turn the interior light on, and tell the ACU the door closed properly, and it’s now OK to allow normal operation.
I always replace all the switches to make sure the issue won’t repeat. It makes sense to me because I can also make other repairs as necessary. Here’s a tip: The switch holders normally don’t make removing and replacing the switches easy. Plastic hooks break easily, so consider replacing the holder and the switches as one part. Most of the manufacturers sell them as a complete unit.
If you enjoyed reading my post today, please let me know in the comments below. Neli loves comments and opinions! If you would like to experience the new way to repair your appliances, set up your appointment here.
DIY Appliance Repair | Error Codes and Diagnostics | WFC8090GX Whirlpool Smart All-In-One Washer & Dryer
Whirlpool Smart All-in-One Washer & Dryer
It’s 2020, and Whirlpool's Smart All-In-One Washer & Dryer is a recent addition to their laundry lineup. The new unit fits into those tight spaces all technicians have had the unpleasant experience of removing them from. Let’s hope this machine lives up to the hype. From the looks of it, this machine isn’t overly complicated despite all the extra features.
The cool thing about this is that it’s an all-in-one that actually works. Thats rare to find! Flawless? Nope. None of them are that good. I don’t know how you feel about these machines, but when do their job and do it well, your start to realize that you cant live without them.
Like I always say, everything breaks at some point and if you don’t know where to begin troubleshooting, frustration kicks in and nothing gets done. So, let’s move on to some of that troubleshooting, shall we?
Theory of Operation
First things first, you can’t troubleshoot a problem if you don’t understand how your machine is designed. Let's try to fix that! Below I broke down how all of the parts of your Whirlpool Smart All-In-One Washer & Dryer work.
Dry Cycle Theory
- Blower – Generates process air flow through the heater channel, tub, and condenser duct.
- Air Heater – Heats the air, so it gets into the tub at high temperature and reduced relative humidity.
- Heater Channel – Conducts hot process air into the tub, so it can remove humidity from the laundry.
- Inlet Air NTC (negative temperature coefficient) – Used as a feedback for the air heater Control Software.
- Drain Pump – Pumps out condensed humidity and cooling valve water that accumulates in the sump.
- Sump NTC – Used as a feedback for the Auto-Dry Cycle termination algorithms (apart from being used in heated wash cycles).
- Condenser Duct – Process air goes through condenser duct to “get dry” – humidity is condensed and drained out of the “all-in-one” washer/dryer.
- Cooling Valve – Used to spray water into the condenser duct, to cool down the process air and condense humidity.
Below is an illustration showing each component used during the dry cycle because here is where most of us get a little confused.
Service Diagnostic Mode
Here is the "button dance" to access the service diagnostic mode. Assuming you successfully entered the mode, any stored error codes show now. The latest shows first, then subsequent ones. They’re going to be the normal format of F#E#. Refer to the next section and look up your error code.
I didn’t include the troubleshooting steps for each code because they should be in the tech sheet information stored in your machine. You can find it under the top panel, sitting on top of the dispenser assembly.
To exit the diagnostic mode or Service Test Cycle, scroll to the top of the Diagnostics Home screen, press the < button in the top left corner of the screen TWO TIMES, then press the HOME button.
Basic Troubleshooting
Troubleshooting these machines isn’t rocket science, but it might be a little different from what you’ve seen before. Here are a few quick steps to get you close. If all these check OK, we’ll be glad to help narrow the problem to the likely cause.
NO POWER
- For a “no power” problem, take the obvious steps first. Confirm input power to the machine. If there is none, check the breaker or outlet at the wall behind the machine.
- If everything checks OK, the ACU (main) or HMI (interface) boards could be the cause.
- Always confirm good connection between the two boards. It’s not common but has been known to come up every now and then.
CYCLE WON’T START
- Is the child lock activated? Don’t be fooled by this one!
- Check the door lock. Sometimes the door lock won’t make a sound when it should. Listen for the lock trying to lock the door. If you don’t hear it, start there.
- If the lock and strike look OK, suspect and harness or board (main or interface)
DOOR WON’T LOCK
- Make sure the door shuts without forcing.
- With the door shut, the lock should try to lock.
- If the lock doesn’t lock, suspect the lock or the main control (ACU).
DOOR WON’T UNLOCK
- Maybe a power cycle will cure this. Unplug the machine and let it sit for at least five minutes.
- Plug it back into the wall, and wait for another five minutes or so. The door should unlock during this time.
- Follow this procedure to manually unlock the door:
Neli is Here to Help
We hope this mini manual helps with some basic troubleshooting to get your machine running again. Neli loves helping you find out what’s going with your appliance and getting our virtual hands dirty to help you fix it, too.
As always, remember you have someone ready to help. Neli is always ready to lend a hand. Just go online and set up an appointment with one of us, and we’ll do our best to solve the problem.