DIY Appliance Repair Series | Whirlpool WDT975SAHZ Smart Dishwasher | Error Codes
There are many dishwasher models that sooner than later, become constant headaches. This Whirlpool series works well. So good, in fact, that it feels good to write about a machine I can say I have faith in its operation.
Before you think I’ve lost it, hear me out first. You may already know I’ve been a technician for a long time, and I’ve seen my share of dishwashers that make me want to scratch my head to figure out why they made it this way.
I know some techs reading this agree with me. After seeing enough machines that don’t cut it, so to speak, I appreciate seeing some that make sense in their design, and will stay fixed whenever they need repair, which isn’t often.
The Whirlpool I’m talking about today meets our stringent specs as a technician favorite! Of course, all machines need repair, but what sets the good ones apart from the others is how often they break, and is it a single, repetitive problem or does the machine have constant breakdowns from different causes?
1-1 or 1-2 error code usually means a failed control. With the newer Whirlpool dishwashers, if you see a 1-1 error code, the control is probably shorted at the K1 relay on the control.
2-2 error is the user interface. It lost its communication with the control. Check the harness, because sometimes it’s only a loose connection. If you find nothing wrong, you should replace the UI.
3-1, 3-2, 3-3 error codes relate to the Thermistor/Optical Water Indicator (OWI) and its calibration. The sensor looks for the cleanliness of the water and trips when the water temperature it out of range. This error code requires troubleshooting to find the cause. For this problem, it’s best to contact Neli for an appointment.
4-3 error code points directly to the wash motor. Fortunately, this error is not as frequent as it once was. Most of the time, the motor bearings are at fault and won’t allow the motor to start. It’s much less hassle to replace the sump assembly instead of the wash motor by itself, unless you have the proper clamps to do the job, and you’re sure the inverter is fine and the gasket isn’t leaking.
Before replacing the wash motor or sump, confirm the motor is the problem by checking for rotation. Also, if you’re not getting power to the motor after confirming the motor circuit, replace the control. This is another instance where you should contact Neli for help.
5-1 or 5-2 error codes show door closing issues. Most times, just opening and closing the door will solve the problem and reset the door switch, or by pressing the Start/Resume key on the UI resets the code. If the codes still show, drop power and check all the connections inside the door. It doesn’t happen often, but the harness or switch inside the housing might be the problem.
6-1 thru 6-4 error codes show a problem with water leaking or not entering machine. If your dishwasher has any of these codes showing, it’s best to turn off the water and power to the unit. Water leaking that’s visible is much easier to work with than water entering, but not detected.
Now it’s time to take a bright flashlight with a good set of eyes and find the source of the leak, if there is one, and run a fill test to confirm your findings. Add water and allow a pre-wash to start as you watch under the sump for any signs of water. While it’s filling, open the door to confirm the water stops filling. If it doesn’t stop, you likely have a water inlet valve stuck open.
Turn off the water immediately and order a new valve. If water doesn’t come in at all, we need to help you find out why. Yes, it could be a simple problem, but it could also be more serious, which is why two heads are better than one.
Next up is the heater. 7-1 and 7-2 error codes show either no heat detected or a stuck heater relay on the control. Whirlpool vastly improved the heaters in the new dishwasher models. 10 years ago, the heaters were constantly failing until they beefed up the relays and the controls.
If you suspect a bad heater today, it’s best to go into diagnostics and check there. Or remove the dishwasher and use your meter to check continuity of the heater. Be sure to disconnect one lead from the heater before checking to avoid a bad reading.
If the heater checks good and you still have no heat, check it through diagnostics (remember the 1,2,3 button sequence three times to enter). Allow the test cycle to run, then open the door 15 seconds after the drain stops, then pour water on the heater to hear a sizzle.
The heater activates for 30 seconds after the drain stops at the end of the test cycle. It’s a quick and easy way to test the heater and circuit. If the heater never turns off, suspect a stuck relay on the control which requires a replacement.
8-2 or 8-3 error codes show a drain problem. These are straightforward. If the pump won’t turn off, it’s likely caused by the control. If won’t turn on, check the motor windings and the harness connection. If the pump runs but doesn’t drain water, check the impeller, sump, and drain hoses all the way to the sink or house drain.
9-1 thru 9-3 error codes show the diverter is running constantly or not at all. The control sees them as position errors, and you must remove the sump assembly to troubleshoot. First, listen for the hum from the diverter before deciding it’s not turning. Sometimes the white disc inside the sump is missing or not positioned correctly.
10-1 error codes are rare, but they happen. So, if you see one of these codes, you will probably end up replacing the dispenser, but there’s an outside chance the control is bad, too.
12-1 thru 12-7 error codes are for provisioning the wireless capabilities of the dishwasher. The problems with Wi-Fi are best solved onsite, using the customer’s use and care guide.
Whirlpool Smart dishwashers are nice units, and people love them. Not so much for the wireless features, but the dependability of the new dishwashers is impressive and getting better. As with any appliance, they have their moments and breakdown. But like I said, when they’re fixed right, the repairs last as they should.
Remember, you always have Neli ready and willing to help you through the tough spots with repairs. Contact us any time for help.
DIY Appliance Repair | Error Codes and Diagnostics | WET4024HW0 Whirlpool Laundry Center
Perhaps you haven't looked lately, but Whirlpool finally got it together and did a good job recreating the old standby washer/dryer combo. That's not to say they don't have problems, because they do, but not like before.
I remember when the laundry centers seemed to have been designed by someone uneducated in washer design. Many of them had terrible design flaws that made them shake so bad people returned them in droves.
Imagine the feeling of having your new house flood during the first use of the machine, and having no way to stop the tub from completely draining onto your new floor in your upstairs laundry room.
Fortunately, those days are mostly behind us now. Designs are much better, and built-in safety features and diagnostics do a good job detecting problems before they turn into unmitigated disasters.
A New Digital Display User Interface
You may remember when these machines never had a display or self-diagnostics. They were a hassle to operate because they used old-style switches that broke often, and because other, non-stacked models already had the latest features like digital consoles and displays. So, owning one of the older units made using one seem outdated and unreliable, which they were.
Technology to the rescue! Whirlpool's design changes included fitting this machine with the new style washing system found in most late-model machines. That means better dependability and more familiarity with the internal parts.
Like I said earlier, the addition of self-diagnostics made a positive change in the right direction. Problems that inevitably occur aren't as bad as before, and not as often.
Self-Diagnostics and Error Codes
Below is a list of the error codes for this machine. I'll look at a few of the more common ones in detail. The list is another indicator of the advancements made in this model. Earlier versions had no diagnostics and inadequate service information. We can feel confident in owning and working on these machines.
Abnormal Spin Error - One of the problems that the redesign resolved is the E3 Error Code for an abnormal spin. Whirlpool added an out-of-balance switch that trips the code whenever the tub makes contact. That's going to happen with an unbalanced load or an overweight one.
That's key to this problem. Many people think just because the load isn't so big that it's falling out of the tub, it's OK to run a wash. What they're not addressing is the weight of the load. Sometimes loads will look normal, but are too far over the weight limit for this machine. That said, simple physics tells us that the tub will quickly go out of balance as the inertia increases with spin speed. With this condition, expect the out-of-balance switch to get a lot of exercise.
This situation brings me back to my age-old sermon about balanced loads in top-load washers. Always keep your loads sized, so they never fill the basket more than halfway unless, and only when, the load is very lightweight. You can then make common-sense adjustments to increase the load size while keeping the weight in mind, too.
Lid Lock Malfunction - Another error code, EL for a failed lid lock, sometimes shows up for no apparent reason. Do yourself a favor and find out why before ignoring it altogether. That's because it will come back, and it will happen at the worst possible time. The lid won't unlock when you have your best clothes in the washer, and you have to work that day. So, if it comes up, find out why it happened if you can.
Look for something stuck under the lid, blocking the plunger of the lid lock. Or, if you hear the latch trying to lock, look for an obstruction other than under the lid. It might be that the latch has failed, too.
Don't Push the Machine Past Its Limits
Like I said earlier, these machines have greatly improved. But, they are machines, and they break. Not often, we hope. So, don't push your luck and try to sneak in the extra towel, shirt, or pants. The little excess weight might be the final straw, if you know what I mean.
Keep the loads reasonable, and follow the "halfway" rule. That will save you tons of money down the road in fewer repairs, especially from overloading. I hope this edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series helps you someday. It's always a pleasure writing for our readers because I know all of you appreciate the help.
As always, if you have any comments or suggestions, please feel free to include them below. We love hearing from you!
DIY Appliance Repair | Kitchenaid 30” Electric Double Wall Oven | KODE500ESS Error Codes
The Kitchenaid KODE500 Series of wall ovens are very nice and well built. They sport a glass user interface and a sharp appearance. The European convection feature (True Convection) has a third heating element sitting behind the fan mounted to the oven’s rear wall. It’s designed to blow heated air around the inside of the oven for a more even baking experience. Convection ovens regulate better because the heat is uniform compared to traditional ovens that have hotspots. Have you ever heard it said that cooks know their ovens? The uneven heat in conventional ovens takes all the credit for that saying!
As with any kitchen appliance, they will have their issues. Fortunately, not many that I’ve seen. Today’s article from the DIY Appliance Repair Series shows you typical error codes that come up with this model. But, as I said, these are well-built models and don’t fail often. But, they’re not perfect. Temperature errors and an occasional oven door latch error, and finally, a rare communication error might occur. Whenever you receive an over-temperature error code, you will need to check the related components, but keep in mind that the error code might be erroneous.
The code may have been generated by a faulty oven sensor and NOT a shorted relay that many people assume, so they end up replacing the control thinking a bake or broil relay failed, only to have the problem come back again. We can walk you through the procedure for troubleshooting these issues. Without proper guidance, we don’t recommend tackling this kind of job, especially by yourself.
F6E1 or F6E3 Error Code
These are oven over-temperature errors - Upper Oven and Lower Oven, respectively. If an oven temperature sensor fails, you will see this error. But, remember, it can throw you off. It’s best to check the resistance of the oven sensors. Look for a reading of around 1050 ohms for a good sensor. Check the bake and broil elements to ground. If you find one shorted to ground, the control is fine, and the over-temp alarm is justified. On the other hand, if the elements check good along with the oven sensor, suspect a bad appliance manager for the oven.
F5E1 or F5E4 Error Code
Sometimes, the latch that locks the oven door during a self-clean procedure will jam and won’t allow the oven door to open. The most common cause of either the upper E1 or lower E4 latch failures is their home position switches. The switches fail open and when the latch assembly cycles, it can’t find home position, and finally, the control times out and throws one of the error codes. These are tricky to work on unless you know how they work. Save yourself the grief and set up some time with Neli to help you through this. 
F6E0, F6E6, or F6E9 Error Code
The above error codes relate to a loss of communication between the oven user interface and the appliance manager (F6E0). It’s not very common, but yes, it does happen. F6E6 is a loss of upper oven communication and F6E9 is a loss of lower oven communication. In my experience, I found that the error codes are spot on, nothing erroneous. Still, a communication error can get pricey. We can give you the details.
Oven Not Reaching Desired Temperature
I’ve talked about oven temps in this article. Sometimes the ovens in these models won’t reach their set temperatures. Here are a few do’s and don’ts that might help:
- Don’t use aluminum foil on the bottom of the oven cavity
- Don’t use foil on the oven racks (it prevents proper air circulation)
- Do place bakeware to maximize air circulation - See your Use and Care Guide
- Do check the oven temperature calibration for each oven - See your Use and Care Guide
If you still experience oven temperature regulation issues, please, reach out to us, and we can offer more solutions to help solve the problem. I hope you like what you read here today. All of us at Neli strive daily to meet our customers’ needs by providing helpful information when it’s needed.
If you have anything to add or have any suggestions to make Neli a better place for all of us, please let us know in the comment section below. We love to hear from you!
DIY Appliance Repair | Error Codes | Whirlpool WEG730H0DS0 Gas Range
In keeping with our usual theme of helping the DIY techs out there, we tend not to get too deep in the weeds with technical stuff. That’s because, based on lots of input from customers, you guys want to know how to fix your appliance and don’t have a need to know all the details because you’re not full-time techs. Unless, of course, you ask us. Then we’re ready and willing to share that, too.
F1E0 - EPROM Communication Error
Whenever you see this error, it’s going to be a main control problem. The only fix is a new board.
Today’s article covers the error codes for the Whirlpool WEG730H0DS0 gas range. I chose this model because of the popular fan code, F8E0. I’ll address this code a little later. The error code applies to Kitchenaid, JennAir, Maytag, and Whirlpool gas and electric slide-in ranges, including induction. But for now, I’ll show you more common codes and leave the obscure ones where they belong. In obscurity, at least for now!
For the most part, anytime you see an F1 code, it’s a sign of trouble. It’s almost always a communication error generated by a bad control. If you’re lucky, you can get by with cycling power, but even that won’t last long. The only suggestion is to replace the main control.
F2E1 - Stuck Keypad
The error sounds pretty straightforward and usually means the keypad failed. But, if the user happened to press a key too long, this code would show. Cancel clears the code. If a key is stuck, cancel has no effect.
F8E0 and F8E2 - Cooling fan speed too low or too high
There has been a lot of talk about the real cause of this problem. Over the years, I think about half of the time, the hall effect sensor failed. That was in the early days of this error. Whirlpool started shipping the sensor with the fan. So, to cure the problem, just replace both, and you should be good to go.
I think the biggest problem with this error code was how to remove the fan. Some videos show how to remove the top with a gas range. Removing the manifold isn’t necessary, and you run the risk of a gas leak when finished. If you’re an experienced technician, then do what you feel is best. For the average DIYer, I wouldn’t recommend going through all the extra work unless you have the experience.
After you remove the top, you can remove the left side panel to expose the fan and connector. If yours is an electric version, removing the top is a cinch. Following is a tip about handling the front console.
Fab two pieces of stiff wire into the shape of S hooks. The pieces should be about three inches long. When you unscrew the console on the front, use the hooks, one on each side of the console, to hook onto the bracket still attached to the range. You’ll see plenty of places to attach the hooks. The hooks keep the console out of your way and won’t damage the harness and mylar ribbon cable.
Also, be sure to order the fan version that includes the hall effect sensor. Call our Parts Department to order: 833-876-0900 Ext 5. Here’s a picture of the correct part:
So far, I’ve been talking about errors in the gas or electric version of this model. The induction oven version is identical to the electric model except for the cooktop’s different lasered etchings.
I haven’t included information about the induction version of this model because it requires guidance from an experienced technician to understand the process involved with induction cooking. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to Neli before attempting to troubleshoot any issue with your induction cooktop for safety reasons. Honestly, there’s too much going on under that cooktop, and you should never try it if one of us isn’t helping you.
I hope today's post lends some much-needed help on a few of the issues that come up now and then with these ranges. As always, if you need our help, we are only a click away!
DIY Appliance Repair | Top Load Washer Issues | Whirlpool WTW4850HW Series
In this edition of the DIY Appliance Repair Series, I will discuss three issues we’ve seen with this series of Whirlpool top load washer. The three problems are related to each other and caused by ONE thing. You’re probably going to hate me when I say this, but here goes. Overloading is the ONE thing that causes this problem.
In my other posts, I’ve stressed that overloading is the root cause of most washer problems. In the case today, it is the ONLY reason why the issues occur. They have nothing to do with quality or overuse. The machines will run a very long time if you keep the loads to standard size.
Consider the kind of mechanical forces at play when you’re washing a standard size load. You have a basket full of wet clothes, and a metal shaft in the center. The sheer weight of the wet clothes batters the shaft and continually pushes on the agitator as it moves to clean your clothes.
A standard size load is no problem for the washer and will do fine for years with that kind of use. I can say from experience what I’m saying is true, because I own a washer similar to the one pictured here. It’s September of 2020, and in January of 2021, that washer is six years old. 
I haven’t touched the washer for any reason. It is never overloaded and doesn’t see king-size blankets, etc. It runs great, isn’t noisy, doesn’t leak, and shows no signs of slowing down. I’ve checked the machine several times, and I haven’t found anything that needs attention.
My situation isn’t unusual. I see machines like this every day. But, I also see worn out washers wobble and leak, and they are only two years old. My point is this. Your washer really can do an excellent job for you, but you have to treat it for what it is – a machine. Manufacturers design machines for specific functions, and if you push them past their designed-in limits, problems happen.
What Exactly is Too Much Weight?
That’s a question I get almost every day. With washers today, a hefty dose of common sense applies. As a general rule of thumb for every load, a basket that is half-full of clothes is a standard size load for a top load. A front-load washer is a little more forgiving. After loading your clothes, you should see only about eight inches of clearance between the top of the basket and the top of the load. There are no exceptions to this rule. Please, heed the warning here. Too much weight causes early problems with your washer. Your washer today is nothing like the washers of fifteen years ago. Not even close.
Noisy and Leaking Greasy Water
If you ever have a noise issue or sometimes a greasy water leak under the machine, the first thing you want to check is the gearcase shaft (#5 in the picture). If it has fallen, it’s probably causing all of your issues.
By falling, I mean that the center shaft of the gearcase comes loose internally and drops down about a quarter-inch. That’s enough to ruin the bearing and cause it to start leaking oil. If you look under the machine (#16 in the picture), you can see a circle worn into the guard and an oily mess.
Because the shaft fell, everything attached to it also dropped. The drive belt pulley now makes contact with the guard, making a loud noise and wearing a circular hole into the bottom.
Unfortunately, the only fix for this problem is a new gearcase, belt, and cam assembly. I know this sounds like a big job, but the reality is that if you’re mechanically inclined and have power tools, we can walk you through this repair in about two hours.
Or, you can opt-out of the repair entirely and replace the washer. But, is that what DIYers do? The DIYers I talk to love to save money, and this is one of those times when you will save a LOT of money by doing it yourself.
Yes, it’s a lot of work, but it is worth the time and effort. When finished, you’ll have a great running washer and still have money left in your pocket.
Constant Unbalanced Loads and Not Draining
The third and most troublesome problem is that the washer gets to the point where it won’t drain and spin any load, regardless of size. This problem creeps up over time and eventually shows itself all at once.
When the problem starts, you notice that once in a while, the washer won’t spin, won’t drain, or both. It is intermittent, so it doesn’t stick out as a problem that needs fixing today. Then, all of sudden, one day, it won’t spin, drain, or wash. Why? You guessed right this time.
Top load washers today won’t let you slide when there are mechanical problems. They stop working and won’t budge until you do something. That something is to reach out to Neli. We can diagnose the problem and have you up and running in the shortest time possible!
DIY Appliance Repair | Error Codes and Calibration | WTW5000DW
All of us at Neli understand there are times when your washer will not do what it is supposed to do. That said, here is another addition to our DIY Appliance Repair Series: Error Codes and Calibration for the Whirlpool Series WTW5000DW top load washer.
Today’s post will show you how to read the error codes that occasionally occur on your Whirlpool Model WTW5000DW washer. Also, I will show you how to calibrate the machine to help smooth out its operation.
Technically speaking, you should use the calibration mode after any part replacement. Sometimes, though, it can help rid the control of erroneous operation that does not make sense.
Error Codes and Calibration
To get started with diagnosing an error code, you must access the control electronics and view its memory. Click here to view a copy of the tech sheet, just like the one stored inside your washer that shows you how to activate the service and diagnostic test modes.
Warning: Once you have successfully activated the diagnostics using this procedure, you can cancel it by pressing and holding the START button. Also, DO NOT select any function if you do not understand its operation. We cannot be held liable for mistakes that could cause your machine to fail.
If you prefer, feel free to view the tech sheet stored inside your machine, under the console. Printing the tech sheet makes referring to it much more manageable.
With the console display showing the flashing LEDs, rotate the selector knob to “DONE,” then press “START.” Turn the selector knob clockwise to view the most recent error code down to the oldest. Write down which LEDs are flashing, with each click of the knob. Remember, the first one is the latest code. Refer to the tech sheet to determine the code, its cause, and possible solution. The LED indicator names may be different, but the functions are the same.
Now that you confirmed the error code, carefully read the possible cause and solution. Remember that the tech sheet will not train you. It is there to assist technicians when they troubleshoot. If you are unfamiliar with anything you see, please, do not risk hurting yourself or your washer. It is not worth it.
I know that you know your limitations. Please reach out to Neli and make an appointment to talk to one of us to solve the issue. We have the experience and knowledge and will be glad to share it with you. Just make the appointment, and we will help you fix your washer.
Common Error Codes Explained
I have worked on these machines for a long time, and I have seen my share of error codes, but I have not seen all of them. That is because some of them are very rare, but I think they are listed because at some point they might happen.
That said, I will go into detail about common error codes you are likely to see on your machine.
I listed a SUDS error code because although other reasons usually cause it except for too much soap, it is still worth mentioning. Sometimes a mechanical bind in the basket will trick the control into thinking it is a suds problem, when it is something stuck between the basket and the tub, causing the basket to bind.
Off-balance or overload error codes are most common in top load washers. The first checks are the suspension rods and the driven hub in the basket. Overloading and heavy, unbalanced loads cause this error, and the only fix is either new suspension rods and a new driven hub, or both. Avoid these errors by remembering that a half-full basket is a full load. No exceptions.
I can tell you from experience that most of the time, the main control needs replacing. F1 codes on these machines usually mean the control is bad. You can make the checks by following the tech sheet, but I think they will take you right to the control.
Sometimes, before either of the above errors show up, you might here the control continuously try to lock the lid. Look at the strike mounted to the lid first. Next, check the action of the strike as you close the lid. If the strike hangs up, suspect the lid lock. In some instances, a bad relay on the control causes the repetitive locking sound. In that case, the control is the cause.
The basket speed fault is one of those errors caused by several problems. A calibration might take care of all of them. Make sure the basket spins freely and look underneath the machine to check the gearcase and pulley. If all looks good here, try a calibration.
If calibration passes, try a drain and spin to check the motor, control, and capacitor. Next, try starting a wash and wait until agitation starts. If it never starts agitation, check the shifter (actuator). If you suspect a bad shifter, perform the test located in the tech sheet.
Most times, you will spot this problem before the error code shows up. That is because you will notice the cold or hot water is not filling at the regular rate, or the cold water does not fill fast enough during the rinse.
The first check is the water hoses and screens. Be careful with the new style screens. They are now plastic, and while you can remove them, even if you can without breaking them, it is likely the solenoid that opens the valve failed.
Because the control is fussy about water fill times, I always replace the water inlet valve to avoid the hassle of the plastic screens and a failed solenoid or two. The part is cheap enough that it is not a huge expense, and it will get your machine running well again.
If you notice your clothes soaked at the end of the wash, do not immediately suspect the drain pump. It is lower on the scale of probable causes. The first check is the drain hose in the standpipe. Please make sure the end of it is no more than 4.5 inches down into the standpipe.
The further down the hose is, the more likely a siphon may occur. A siphon will obstruct the drain function and cause the control to send the error code for long drain. The way this happens is the drain water first flows into the drain. Still, because the standpipe is already full, it causes water to remain in the tub where the water level sensor (pressure sensor) does not register with the control that the water level is not decreasing, flagging the control to send the error code.
The same result happens if there is a pinhole air leak in the pressure switch hose. The water level sensor system requires an airtight hose that sends the air pressure changes to the digital air sensor on the control. If the air does not reach the sensor, the control sees that as no change in the water level, sending the error code for long drain.
Also, check for a pinched or kinked pressure switch hose, or a visible obstruction. After you repair the cause of the problem, perform a calibration, and test the washer.
That completes today’s post about error codes. As always, if you have any comments or anything to add, please let us know in the comments section. You know we love to hear from you!
Remember, Neli is always here to help with repairs and diagnosis. See you soon.
DIY Appliance Repair - Whirlpool Cabrio Noisy Operation
Regardless of which model Cabrio you’re using, they do have their issues in spin mode. That’s not to say they’re a terrible machine, because that would be a lie. Overall, they’re a great machine, but like every other washing machine, someday issues will come up.
I’ll start with the latest version of the Whirlpool Cabrio and work my way back to the beloved floating basket models (pun intended). Models in the 2016 and newer era have a beautiful redesign and get better every year. Sleek and modern looking with a touch UI. Larger capacity and high-speed spin make these machines a must-have for many.
A big problem happening everywhere it seems directly relates to two things. The first being that customers are unaware that you can overload these machines. The second one is still related to overloading, but there may be an easy fix.
Salespeople tend to forget about telling customers that in these machines, and most other top-loading machines, a full load is a half-full basket – no exceptions.
An overloaded top-load washer won’t perform well, and constant use stresses the mechanical components. The quick demise of the machine occurs because of the extra weight it deals with regularly. Please, take my advice and stop overloading your machine. You can thank me when you realize your machine lasted longer than you expected.
Causes of a Noisy Spin and Wash Cycle
In the new Whirlpool Cabrio, overloading causes the basket/tub assembly to sink beyond its designed limits, resulting in the rotor (No. 21 in the diagram) of the motor rubbing on the floor during the wash and spin cycle. That’s a peculiar noise that you won’t soon forget.
Before you say to yourself the machine shouldn’t do that, you’re right. It shouldn’t and typically won’t. However, if there is something under the machine like a warped floor, or a carpeted floor, or even a children’s toy, the rotor will make contact. Please, double-check for these possible causes.
A similar noise occurs when your machine sits on a drip pan. Many of these drip pans have an arc in the middle for some reason, and the rotor ends up very close to it and starts to rub loudly. It’s the added weight that causes the tub assembly to sink too close to the drip pan. As the rotor spins or agitates back and forth, it rubs on the drip pan below. You might think this is a design problem. In truth, the extra weight causes the problem.
Here’s an actual parts breakdown of the tub/basket assembly of a Whirlpool Cabrio washer:
Part no. 28 is the suspension rod. Top load washers have four of them. They’re metal rods that hang from the aprons built into the frame of the machine. On one end, a heavy-duty spring supports the weight of the tub assembly and everything attached. The opposite end attaches to the apron.
The four suspension rods support ALL of the combined weight of the parts in the diagram except the wiring harness. Add some water and clothes to all that weight, and you should have a new appreciation for the amount of weight held by just those suspension rods!
Spin and Agitate Issues with Earlier Cabrio Designs
Earlier Cabrios (2016 and older) have a different design and don’t experience the same issue if it’s overloaded. That’s not to say it’s OK to overload them. The mechanical stress is always an issue when a washer is overloaded. They still use the suspension rod system, but the tub/basket assembly uses a floating basket that’s smaller with a different motor.
The floating basket is another issue with the earlier Cabrios. The basket floats in water as the tub fills up, allowing agitation to occur. Before spinning, the drain motor pumps out the water, and the basket returns to its regular down (spin) position. The problem with this design is the shaft that the basket slides on gets corroded and rusts, causing the basket to seize on the tub shaft.
That leads to OL (overload) error codes, and the basket will not spin until a new shaft or tub (with the shaft) gets replaced along with the suspension rods.
Common Noisy Spin Issues
The most common noise during spin comes from a worn-out and leaking tub bearing. That’s true for all Cabrios, even though the design is slightly different. You can’t help but hear what sounds like a jet flying over your house as your washer spins faster and faster. It’s not a jet; it’s your washer’s tub bearing!
In earlier Cabrios, the tub shaft is the culprit, forcing you to replace the shaft or the tub that includes the shaft. Newer Cabrios use a gearcase with the bearing built-in, so the only way to repair it is with a new gearcase (No. 3 in the diagram).
Keep Your Whirlpool Cabrio Working Great
I hope you have a better idea of what causes the noises in your washer. You’ll find that some noise during spin or agitate is preventable if you follow the guidelines stated here. Keep the load size reasonable, use the right amount of soap, and maintain the machine. After all, it is only a machine, and it depends on you for proper care. Machines do break, and that’s why NeliHome is here for you! If you need advice or help with a repair or diagnosis, we’re ready and able to help out!
DIY Appliance Repair | Electrolux IQ-Touch Dryer Error Codes
The Electrolux IQ-Touch dryer is another in a line of condensing ventless dryers from Electrolux. They’re compact and easy to place when space is an issue. Though they’re not as robust as a standard electric dryer, they get the job done.
We’ve put together a list of possible error codes you might experience with these dryers. As with any error code, they get you close to the cause and solution but that’s only half the battle. That’s where Neli comes to the rescue.
We can walk you through any repair using our unique camera sharing technology for real-time repair and diagnosis of the problems all of us face with home appliances. When you need us, we’re right here! So, go ahead and repair your stuff, knowing you always have help just a click away.
Electrolux IQ-Touch Dryer Error Codes
E31 – Moisture sensor feedback frequency is too high. Clean the sensor bars inside the dryer first and repair any damage, if any.
E32 – Moisture sensor feedback frequency is too low. Once again, dirt on the sensor bars or damage to them might be the cause.
E42 – Dryer door open. Test the door switch with your meter. If open or intermittent, replace the switch.
E51 – Motor relay failure. The motor might be intermittent or no operation.
E52 – Motor stopped or won’t start. Check for mechanical restrictions. If you find none, contact us to help walk you through to confirm the cause.
E53 – Drive motor centrifugal switch failure. Reach out for help. We can pinpoint the cause.
E54 – The drive motor relay circuit failed.
E61 – Heater relay failure.
E63 – The control detected a ground short at the heating element.
E64 – Open heating element circuit.
E65 – Main control detected the high limit thermostat tripped to often (electric only). Contact us for help in finding the cause.
E66 – Tripped thermal fuse. There is more than one cause for this error. If you don’t know for sure how to proceed, contact us for help.
E66 – Heating sensor circuit failure triggered by the main control.
E71 or E72 – Outlet thermistor is out of range.
E73 – Inlet thermistor is out of range.
E74 – Similar to E54, drive motor relay circuit failure.
E91 – Communication error. Typical cause is communication between UI (user interface) and main control.
E92 – Mismatch between UI and main control.
E93 – The control and peripherals aren’t matched or configured.
E94 – Configuration error internal to the main control.
E97 - A program mismatch internal to the main control.
EA1 – The control sees the frequency of the incoming power out of range (should be 60Hz). Contact the power company for correct power and frequency.
EA2 – The control detected incoming voltage above 130 Vac.
EA3 – The control detected incoming voltage below 90 Vac.
EA4 – The control detected incorrect wiring on the terminal block.
EA5 – This is a fatal error of the main control, meaning that you must replace it.
EF1 – The temperature regulation in the dryer isn’t correct and triggered this “blocked vent” error code.
EF3 – Maximum drying time for the selected cycle has passed and clothes are still wet. A strong indication of blocked or restricted air flow.
EF8 – This error indicates a stuck key on the UI.
When you’re troubleshooting your appliance and you experience one of the codes above, don’t take them as the exact cause every time. Sometimes, the code is obvious, like a door sensing error. That’s an easy one. It’s the more involved codes such as an E53 centrifugal switch error on the motor that can throw you off.
The switch provides a path for L2 power for the heating element in an electric dryer. If it’s missing, the dryer won’t heat, which is probably what the error code is trying to tell you. In other cases, if the belt breaks, the motor stops which also opens the centrifugal switch and generates the error because L2 is again missing.
Appliances seem simple enough, but symptoms can lead you astray and you’ll struggle to repair a relatively simple problem. You can take the YouTube route but do so with caution. A better, faster, and less stressful way to get your stuff running again is with a live chat with a Neli certified technician.
You can’t go wrong with our service. We’ll talk with you on the phone, or video chat and work together to find and solve the problem. Many times you won’t need parts, but when you do, we give you the part numbers and sources for the parts.
After you have the parts, you’re welcome to call us for a repair session for assistance if necessary. As always, if you like what you see here, please tell us in the comments below. Your thoughts and ideas are important and help us understand if we need to change things up or stay the course.
DIY Appliance Repair | Electrolux Compact Condensing Dryer Error Codes
Ventless dryers are great for those tight spaces in apartments or anywhere space is at a premium. They’re a great invention, but just like other dryers they have their problems, too. The list of error codes below should help you get very close to the source of the problem, but they’re not always spot-on. That’s why Neli is here to help. Contact us anytime if you need us.
EH1, EH2, or EH3 - The control shows a supply voltage problem. Unplug the machine and remove the protective plate over the electrical connections. Have your meter ready, then plug in the machine and be careful not to touch the connections! Measure the input voltage to confirm the error. Your reading should show between 208 Vac and 240 Vac. If it doesn’t fall in this range, either the pigtail (power cord), the socket for the plug, or the wiring is faulty. Call an electrician to repair the problem.
Ex21 or Ex22 - Condensate drain pump failure. Start by checking the connections between the condensate drain pump and the main control.
Ex31 or Ex32 - Humidity sensor failure. As with other errors, check the connections between the sensor and the main control, and repair if necessary.
Ex45 - Open door. Possible defective door switch.
Ex51 - Drive motor failure. Check the windings and connections at the motor first.
Ex52 - Thermal cutout tripped on the drive motor.
Ex53 - Motor sensing circuit error. This could be an erroneous error. Cycle power and try again.
Ex54 - Drive motor stalled. Check for mechanical restrictions.
E57 or E58 - The inverter board is drawing too much current.
E59 - No tachometer signal from the motor.
E5A - The inverter board sent an “overheat” alarm to the control. Many times, this error shows that the ambient temperature in and around the dryer is too high.
E5H - Control is sensing the motor input voltage is below 100 Vac.
E5C - Control is sensing the supply voltage is above 240 Vac.
E5D or E5E - Communication error between the inverter board and the main control.
E5F - The inverter did not start the main drive motor. Confirm input to inverter from main control.
Ex62 - Shorted compressor. Contact us to help you diagnose this problem. If troubleshooting confirms this error, only a licensed refrigeration technician can replace the compressor because of Freon handling requirements.
Ex63 - Compressor not starting or running. Contact us to help you diagnose this problem. If troubleshooting confirms this error, we can help narrow the cause to one or two components. A compressor replacement, if necessary, requires a licensed refrigeration technician to replace the compressor because of Freon handling requirements.
Ex64 - Compressor sensor circuit failure reported to the main control.
Ex71 - Temperature sensor failure.
Ex83, Ex86, or Ex87 - Main control board failure.
Ex91 - UI (user interface) communication failure.
Ex92 or Ex98 - The UI is incompatible with the main control.
Ex9E - No input from one or more of the UI buttons.
ExH1 - The control monitors the incoming line voltage frequency and shows this code when it’s out of programmed limits.
ExH2 - Power supply voltage is too high, over 130 Vac. ExH3 - Power supply voltage is too low, under 100 Vac.
ExH4, ExHD, ExHE, ExHF, or ExF6 - Main control board failure.
We hope you’ll find this list of error codes useful. As a lifelong tech myself, I always appreciate accurate information, especially when troubleshooting. The list here is complete and up-to-date based on the latest information available. We know errors and omissions might happen, and if you find something on this list that is incorrect, please let us know in the comments section below. We always welcome input from our readers because when we work together, we all win! Remember, you can make an appointment with a certified tech at Neli anytime.
DIY Appliance Repair | Bosch Dryer Error Codes
The error codes in this section refer to Bosch’s NEXXT dryer series (circa 2006). They’re good machines like many Bosch products. Just like any others, they have their own set of problems. However, the basic and common problems universal to all dryers give Bosch owners headaches, too.
An example is the problem of blocked or restricted air flow. Most manufacturers publish customer error codes that don’t require service by a professional technician. The codes represent a problem the consumer should understand and take responsibility for solving.
The most common consumer error code with a Bosch dryer is an E01 or E03 code. Either of these translate to an airflow problem. Restricted (i.e. crushed vent at the back of the dryer) airflow or a blocked vent directly contribute to one or both of the codes.
Overheating happens with restricted airflow, while under heating (i.e. my dryer doesn’t heat) occurs when temps rise quickly because of a blocked vent, and the heat turns off too soon because the thermistors sense the temperature is satisfied and shuts down the heater, leaving warm, moist air inside the dryer.
To help prevent heat related issues, always keep the lint screen clean. It’s best to clean it after every load. A lint screen that’s full of lint or clogged from dirt has the same effect as a blocked or restricted vent.
Accessing the Error Codes
During normal operation, no codes show up, but if there is an airflow problem, the dryer control will notify you via the display on the console. Consumer codes E01 or E03 show up in this case. All other error codes require that you enter the diagnostic test mode. Here are the steps:
- Press and hold the START/STOP and DELICATES buttons and turn the cycle selector knob to EXTRA DRY-REGULAR/COTTON.
- Push the START/STOP button and scroll through any existing codes.
- Exit the test mode by returning the cycle selector knob to the OFF position.
Bosch NEXXT Dryer Error Codes
E01, E11, E12 - Overheating. Presumably caused by blocked airflow. Bosch does a good job at detecting this condition, but always clean the lint screen and verify that your vent from the dryer to the outside isn’t crimped or crushed, or clogged at the end of the vent that exits the house.
E03 or E13 - There are multiple reasons for this error. Bosch sets the maximum drying time at 4 hours, which is a very long time for one drying cycle. The first and most common cause is a load that’s too large. Clothes need room to move, similar to that of a washer.
Another cause is blocked or restricted airflow creating a low heat condition. Once again, make sure the lint screen and vent are clean and clear.
This condition could be an open heating element. With a gas dryer, the ignitor or some other issue will cause this error.
Moisture sensing strips which are two curved, metal strips just inside the dryer door might have dirt or a buildup of residue caused by dryer sheets. It’s a simple matter to use vinegar or glass cleaner to remove the buildup.
If nothing seems to work and you still see the same issue, it’s time to contact Neli. We can help you troubleshoot any problem and get your dryer up and running inexpensively and without the hassle of scheduling on-site service!
E17 - Lint screen temperature sensor error. Most times the harness that connects to the sensor lost its connection because of vibration or age. Worst case is the sensor failed and needs replacing. The sensor is a simple NTC thermistor (negative temperature coefficient).
E18 - Heater temperature sensor error. Once again, check the harness that connects to the NTC thermistor. Age and vibration are the main culprits. Check the thermistor for resistance that increases as temperature decreases (NTC).
E20 thru E26 - Defective main control. If you see this error, try unplugging the unit for 10 seconds and try again. If either of the errors show up, you’ll have no choice but to replace the main control.
We hope this information gets you ahead of the problem you’re having with your dryer. We understand the frustration of not having the knowledge or experience to repair your appliances. That’s why Neli exists.
We’re a group of experienced career appliance technicians with a collective knowledge of the same issues you face with your appliances. The big difference is that we’ve seen it all and mastered each problem.
The techs at Neli stand ready to help with any problem home appliance related. Why not check us out here and see what everyone is talking about!
If you like what you read here today, or if you discover any mistakes, please let us know. We love to hear from you!